Tuesday, August 26, 2025

Brandy Harvest Colognes

Brandy Harvest Colognes of 53-06 39th Ave, Woodside, Queens, NY 11377.

1963: "Brandy Harvest Aerosols - Two new aerosol cologne fragrances for men recently were introduced by Brandy Harvest, Woodside, N. Y. The new fragrances are "Shipmates Spray Cologne," a French bouquet with a slightly floral and woodsy; "Riverboat Spray Cologne," with a spice and forest moss scent. They are packaged in a shatterproof glass bottle with turquoise plastic coating with life preserver decor by Owens Illinois Glass Co. Toledo, similar to that used for "Mutiny".


 List of Fragrances:

  • 1963 - Mutiny
  • 1963 - Shipmates (an aldehydic French bouquet, floral woody cologne)
  • 1963 - Riverboat (a forest mossy, spice cologne)
  • 1965 - Social Register (a fruity cologne)
  • 1965 - World Series (pipe tobacco aroma)
  • 1974 - Hall of Fame
  • 1974 - Athletic Club
  • 1974 - Gym
  • 1974 - Social Security
  • 1974 - Patrol
  • 1975 - Brandy Harvest
  • 1975 - Woman of the Year
  • 1975 - Best Seller
  • 1976 - Major League
  • 1976 - Happy (a citrus cologne)
  • 1976 - Minor League
  • 1976 - Guy
  • 1976 - Grasse
  • 1976 - The Fair
  • 1976 - Confidential
  • 1976 - Salvation
  • 1976 - Maverick
  • 1976 - Tidal Wave
  • 1976 - Register
  • 1976 - Man of the Year
  • 1976 - Freedom
  • 1976 - Waterloo
  • 1976 - Night Owl
  • 1976 - Social Status
  • 1976 - Port of New York
  • 1976 - Key Lime
  • 1976 - Gal
  • 1976 - Pal
  • 1977 - Ali (It's the greatest) (a citrus cologne)
  • 1977 - Vigilante
  • 1977 - Turn on the Heat
  • 1979 - Tiffen (an aldehyde cologne)
  • 1980 - Secret Service
  • 1980 - Super Fly
  • 1980 - Elvis (a spicy cologne)
  • 1980 - Telly (a brisk, refreshing citrus cologne)
  • 1980 - Anointing Oil
  • 1981 - Aged
  • 1981 - Coastal Guard
  • 1981 - Jim
  • 1983 - Atlantic City (a fruity cologne)
  • 1983 - Boardwalk (a lime cologne)
  • 1983 - Casino (a spicy cologne)
  • 1983 - Jackpot (a leathery cologne)
  • 1983 - Life Guard
  • 1983 - Legend (a fruity cologne)
  • 1986 - Virus

Saturday, August 9, 2025

Eau Nouvelle by Jean Desses (1976)

Eau Nouvelle by Jean Dessès, launched in 1976 in association with Cantilène, the Parfums de Payot division, bears a name that feels deliberate, modern, and quietly radical for its time. Eau Nouvelle is French, pronounced in simple terms as "oh noo-VELL". Literally translated, it means “New Water”—a phrase that suggests renewal, clarity, and a fresh beginning rather than ornament or excess. In perfumery, the word eau already implies lightness and fluidity, but paired with nouvelle, it becomes a statement of intent: not another variation on tradition, but something consciously new, forward-looking, and reimagined.

The name evokes vivid, sensory imagery: cool water moving over warm skin, green leaves rinsed clean by rain, sunlight flashing across glass and metal. Emotionally, Eau Nouvelle suggests liberation and vitality—stepping into fresh air after confinement, or the exhilaration of change. It is not nostalgic or romanticized; instead, it feels alert, confident, and alive. For a woman, the name implies independence and modernity, a perfume chosen not to please others but to affirm one’s own sense of movement and renewal.

Its 1976 launch places the fragrance squarely in the mid-to-late 1970s, a period marked by experimentation, contrast, and transition. This era followed the social revolutions of the late 1960s and early 1970s and was defined by freedom of expression, global influences, and a loosening of rigid gender and beauty norms. Fashion embraced flowing silhouettes, jersey fabrics, halter necks, earthy tones, and bold prints, while also experimenting with sharp tailoring and minimalist chic. In perfumery, this translated into a fascination with green notes, chypres, and assertive structures—scents that felt intellectual, natural, and slightly rebellious. Women were increasingly self-directed, visible in professional and creative spaces, and less interested in overtly decorative femininity.


A perfume called Eau Nouvelle would have resonated strongly with women of this time. It suggested freshness without fragility, elegance without tradition-bound formality. It spoke to women who wanted a scent that felt current, something that aligned with a sense of change and personal agency. Rather than promising romance or seduction, the name implied energy, clarity, and presence—qualities deeply aligned with the evolving image of modern womanhood in the 1970s.

Interpreted through scent, Eau Nouvelle becomes an olfactory translation of renewal. As a green floral chypre, it combines vivid greenery with structured depth. The “green” aspect conveys sap, leaves, and cool vegetal freshness—sharp, bright, and alive—while the floral elements add color and warmth without sweetness. The chypre base introduces contrast: mossy, dry, and slightly shadowed, giving the fragrance seriousness and longevity. Described as “exotic, fiery,” this suggests that beneath its freshness lies intensity—spice, warmth, and a smoldering undercurrent that prevents the scent from feeling merely clean or fleeting. It is water with heat, freshness with conviction.

In the context of other fragrances on the market, Eau Nouvelle both aligned with and distinguished itself from prevailing trends. Green chypres were highly fashionable in the 1970s, but many leaned heavily into austerity or herbal sharpness. Eau Nouvelle, by contrast, balanced its green structure with sensuality and heat, giving it a more dynamic emotional range. It did not reject the era’s aesthetic—it refined it, offering a fragrance that felt intelligent, expressive, and slightly daring.

Ultimately, Eau Nouvelle was a perfume that embodied its name. It represented a new way of thinking about freshness—not as innocence, but as energy and self-renewal. For women in 1976, it was not simply a fragrance, but a signal of modern identity: fluid, confident, and unafraid of change.


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Eau Nouvelle is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women. "Exotic, fiery." 

  • Top notes: green mandarin, honeysuckle and lily-of-the-valley
  • Middle notes: narcissus absolute, hyacinth absolute and green notes
  • Base notes: oakmoss absolute, palisander rosewood and musk


Scent Profile:

Eau Nouvelle opens with a vivid, green brightness that feels immediately alive, as though cool sap and sunlight are meeting on the skin. Green mandarin leads the opening—less sweet and juicy than traditional mandarin, more zesty and vegetal. Its peel releases a fresh, slightly bitter citrus-green aroma that feels crisp and modern, prized for its clarity and lift. This brightness is softened by honeysuckle, which drifts in with a delicate, nectar-like sweetness, airy and luminous rather than heavy, evoking warm air moving through flowering vines. 

Alongside it, lily-of-the-valley rings clear and cool—bell-like, fresh, and green. As the flower yields no natural extract, this note is masterfully built from aroma molecules that recreate its unmistakable scent: dewy petals, crushed stems, and clean spring air. These synthetics add sparkle and diffusion, enhancing the freshness of the opening while extending its life on the skin.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals its more intense, exotic and fiery character through a trio of powerful green florals. Narcissus absolute brings depth and drama—dark, honeyed, and faintly animalic, with nuances of hay, warm skin, and pollen. Often sourced from southern France, narcissus is prized for its complexity and its ability to blur the line between floral and animal warmth. 

Hyacinth absolute follows, cool and unmistakably green, smelling of snapped stems, damp earth, and lush petals. True hyacinth is reconstructed through a blend of naturals and aroma chemicals, capturing its wet, verdant character. These synthetic elements sharpen its green bite and amplify its radiance, making the floral heart feel vivid and almost tactile. Supporting green notes, shaped by modern molecules, add the sensation of leaves, sap, and fresh growth, intensifying the fragrance’s verdant tension and keeping the florals brisk rather than sweet.

The base anchors Eau Nouvelle in classic chypre elegance. Oakmoss absolute forms the foundation—cool, shadowed, and slightly bitter, with the scent of forest floor, damp bark, and lichen-covered stone. Traditionally sourced from Mediterranean regions, oakmoss is prized for its depth and its ability to give structure and longevity to a composition. 

Palisander rosewood (often associated with Brazilian rosewood profiles) introduces a smooth, polished woodiness—softly rosy, faintly spicy, and refined—bridging the green florals and the earthy moss. Finally, musk envelops everything in a warm, skin-like softness. Modern musk molecules provide cleanliness, diffusion, and persistence, smoothing the sharper green edges and allowing the fragrance to cling intimately to the wearer.

Together, these elements create a green floral chypre that is anything but restrained. Eau Nouvelle feels vibrant and alive—fresh yet intense, cool yet subtly heated from within. The interplay of natural absolutes and carefully chosen aroma chemicals gives the fragrance its distinctive personality: radiant and verdant at the surface, shadowed and sensual beneath. It is a perfume that captures renewal not as innocence, but as energy—an elegant, fiery expression of modern femininity that lingers with quiet confidence.


Product Line:

Available in 1984/1985 as Eau de Toilette Fraiche. 


Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Later released under the Payot name, same bottle and presentation.

Thursday, August 7, 2025

Piment by Parfums Payot (1978)

Piment by Parfums Payot, launched in 1978, emerged at a moment when men’s perfumery was redefining itself—moving away from overly baroque sweetness toward cleaner, more assertive expressions of masculinity. The name Piment was a deliberate and intelligent choice. A French word, pronounced “pee-MAHN” (with a soft nasal ending), piment carries multiple meanings, all of which reinforce the fragrance’s identity. As Payot noted in its U.S. trademark filing, the word can refer to pimento, red pepper, capsicum, Jamaica pepper (allspice), bayberry, and even, in archaic usage, a spiced honeyed wine. This semantic richness gave the name depth: not merely heat, but warmth, aroma, spice, and refinement.

The word Piment evokes vivid, tactile imagery—crushed peppercorns between the fingers, sun-warmed spices laid out in a wooden box, the dry snap of aromatic herbs, and the polished sheen of well-worn leather. Emotionally, it suggests vitality, alertness, and controlled intensity rather than raw aggression. It is not the burn of chili, but the aromatic warmth of spice—stimulating, confident, and subtly sensual. For a men’s fragrance, this communicated individuality and discernment: spice chosen for character, not shock.


The late 1970s were a transitional period in men’s grooming and fragrance, often described as the bridge between classic masculinity and modern freshness. Fashion reflected this duality: tailored suits softened in cut, leisurewear gained refinement, and men became more attentive to personal presentation without embracing excess. In perfumery, this translated into aromatic, spicy, and woody compositions that emphasized cleanliness, structure, and natural materials. Heavy sweetness and overt florals were increasingly viewed as dated, while freshness, herbs, and leather conveyed sophistication and self-control.

Men encountering a fragrance called Piment in 1978 would have immediately understood its promise. It spoke to the self-assured, demanding man—someone confident enough to wear spice, yet refined enough to prefer balance over intensity. Interpreted in scent, Piment becomes an interplay of fresh citrus and aromatics, warm spices, and dry woods resting on a leather base. The spice is aromatic and dry rather than sweet, the woods structured rather than creamy, and the leather polished rather than animalic. This restraint ensured that the fragrance functioned beautifully as a lotion or aftershave, refreshing rather than cloying.

Within the context of its era, Piment did not radically break from trends, but it represented their most disciplined and elegant expression. It aligned with the growing preference for freshness and spice while distinguishing itself through its avoidance of sweetness and its emphasis on aromatic clarity and leathered depth. In doing so, Piment positioned itself as a fragrance of quiet authority—timeless, composed, and unmistakably masculine.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Piment is classified as a spicy fragrance for men. Described as spicy, fresh, flavorful, an original and distinguished note, reserved for the demanding and self-assured man. A harmonious emphasis is placed on freshness. It draws inspiration from wood and spices on a base of leather. This lotion lacks the often overpowering sweetness that some aftershaves suffer from.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, petitgrain, lemon, lavandin, marjoram, rosemary, bay leaf, coriander, pepper, eucalyptusMiddle notes: Virginia cedar, patchouli, clove, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cardamom, ginger, pimento berry
  • Base notes: guaiac, pine needle, rosewood, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, sandalwood, leather, birch tar, isobutyl quinoline, castoreum, styrax



Scent Profile:


Piment opens with a brisk, bracing freshness that feels immediately purposeful and self-possessed. A flash of aldehydes introduces a cool, metallic sparkle—clean and airy rather than soapy—amplifying the freshness and giving the opening its sharp definition. Bergamot, sourced from Calabria and prized for its refined balance of citrus and green-floral facets, brings elegance and lift, while lemon adds a crisp, almost icy brightness. Petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, contributes a dry, green bitterness that keeps the citrus from becoming sweet. Aromatic herbs unfold quickly: lavandin, more robust and camphoraceous than true lavender, merges with marjoram and rosemary, evoking crushed leaves warmed by the sun. Bay leaf adds a spicy, slightly clove-like warmth, while coriander contributes a dry, lemony spice. A measured bite of pepper sharpens the composition, and eucalyptus injects a cool, almost mentholated clarity, reinforcing the fragrance’s emphasis on freshness and alertness.

As the top settles, the heart reveals a dense, flavorful core of woods and spices—rich, but never sweet. Virginia cedar, dry and pencil-wood sharp, gives structure and masculinity, while patchouli adds earthy depth, smoother and darker than its later, sweeter incarnations. The spice accord blooms fully here: clove releases its unmistakable eugenol warmth, cinnamon adds a dry, woody heat, and allspice—true to its name—echoes clove, nutmeg, and pepper in one aromatic gesture. Nutmeg brings a soft, woody roundness, while cardamom contributes a cooler, slightly lemony spice that lifts the heart. Ginger adds a fresh, biting warmth, and pimento berry—the aromatic heart of allspice—ties the entire spice palette together, reinforcing the fragrance’s name and identity. Modern aroma-chemicals subtly reinforce these natural spices, smoothing transitions and extending their presence without diluting their character.

The base of Piment is where its authority truly settles in—dry, leathery, and quietly powerful. Guaiac wood introduces a smoky, resinous warmth, while pine needle adds a green, forested freshness that echoes the aromatic opening. Rosewood lends a refined, slightly rosy woodiness, and oakmoss—earthy, bitter, and damp—anchors the fragrance in classic masculinity. Vetiver, dry and rooty, adds verticality and restraint, its grassy smokiness more austere than sweet. Sandalwood softens the edges with creamy, polished warmth, while musk, in its clean synthetic form, provides a subtle skin-like trail rather than sensual sweetness.

The leather accord emerges with quiet confidence. Birch tar brings smoky, tarred leather depth, sharpened by isobutyl quinoline, a powerful green-leather molecule used in minute doses to create crisp, aristocratic leather tones. Castoreum adds an animalic warmth, lending realism and sensuality without excess, while styrax contributes a balsamic, resinous sweetness—subtle and dry—that binds the leather and woods together. These materials, both natural and synthetic, work in concert to create a leather base that is polished rather than raw, assertive rather than loud.

Altogether, Piment is a masterclass in balance and restraint. Freshness is sharpened, not sweetened; spice is aromatic, not gourmand; leather is refined, not aggressive. The careful interplay between natural ingredients and classic aroma-chemicals enhances clarity, longevity, and structure, resulting in a fragrance that feels composed, confident, and unmistakably masculine—an original and distinguished signature for the self-assured man.


Product Line:

In 1984/1985, Piment was available in:

  • Presentations: Eau de Toilette
  • Shaving Products: Aftershave Lotion; Aftershave Cream
  • Ancillary Products: Shower Gel; Deodorant

 

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Leonard de Leonard (1989)

Léonard de Léonard was launched in 1989 by Parfums Léonard, and its name is intentionally self-referential, almost couture-like in its construction. In French, “Léonard de Léonard” literally translates to “Léonard by Léonard,” echoing the tradition of fashion houses naming signature creations after their founder or brand, much like a designer’s definitive statement piece. Pronounced "LAY-oh-nar duh LAY-oh-na", the repetition of the name reinforces authorship, authenticity, and confidence. It signals that this fragrance is not an offshoot or variation, but the purest expression of the house’s identity.

The name evokes images of Parisian ateliers, refined tailoring, and elegant restraint. Emotionally, it suggests poise, femininity, and cultivated taste rather than overt seduction. It feels introspective and polished—less about spectacle and more about refinement. The repetition of the name also creates a rhythmic softness, reinforcing a sense of harmony and balance that aligns naturally with the fragrance’s green, floral, and powdery character.

Released at the close of the 1980s, Léonard de Léonard arrived during a transitional moment in fashion and perfumery. The late 1980s were characterized by strong silhouettes, bold colors, and expressive fashion statements, yet there was already a growing desire for softness, naturalness, and restraint as the industry moved toward the 1990s. In perfumery, this translated into fresh florals, green notes, and airy compositions, offering a counterbalance to the powerful orientals and heavily animalic fragrances that had dominated earlier in the decade.




Women at the time were navigating evolving identities—professional, independent, and self-assured—while still valuing elegance and femininity. A perfume called Léonard de Léonard would have resonated as a quiet luxury, appealing to women who appreciated fashion as an extension of personal style rather than a display of excess. It suggested refinement, individuality, and confidence rooted in taste rather than volume.

Olfactorily, Léonard de Léonard interprets its name through softness, clarity, and balance. Classified as a fresh floral green fragrance, it opens with crisp green notes that evoke freshly cut stems and morning garden air—clean, luminous, and understated. The floral heart unfolds gently, emphasizing natural elegance rather than opulence, and the powdery base adds a delicate, tactile softness reminiscent of fine fabrics and skin. The scent feels composed and graceful, much like a perfectly tailored garment.

Created by perfumer Roger Pellegrino, the fragrance reflects a couture sensibility: nothing is overstated, yet every element feels intentional. The green freshness gives way to florals that are light and refined, while the powdery base anchors the composition with a sense of comfort and femininity. This interpretation aligns seamlessly with the name, presenting a fragrance that feels both personal and emblematic of the house itself.

Within the context of late-1980s perfumery, Léonard de Léonard was not radically disruptive, but it was perfectly attuned to emerging trends. While many contemporaries still leaned toward bold statements, this fragrance offered a softer, fresher alternative that anticipated the cleaner, more natural aesthetic of the early 1990s. Its green floral profile placed it in dialogue with other elegant, understated perfumes of the era, yet its couture branding and refined execution gave it a distinct identity.

Léonard refers to Daniel Tribouillard, the French fashion designer behind the house of Léonard, renowned for his luxurious printed silks, vibrant florals, and impeccable craftsmanship. Léonard fashion was synonymous with Parisian elegance, color, and fluid femininity. Léonard de Léonard translates this fashion heritage into scent, capturing the house’s signature balance of sophistication, softness, and refined beauty—making the fragrance a natural extension of Léonard’s couture universe.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft fresh floral green fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh green top, followed by a floral heart, layered over a powdery base.

  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, lemon, peach, galbanum, green note, hyacinth, coriander, nutmeg
  • Middle notes:  carnation, lily of the valley, lily, jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang, rose, orris, iris aldehydes, violet
  • Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, vetiver, cedarwood, sandalwood and musk


Scent Profile:

Léonard de Léonard unfolds like a silk scarf lifted by a Parisian breeze—fresh, green, and quietly radiant, its elegance expressed through nuance rather than force. From the very first moment, the top notes feel alive and luminous. Bergamot sparkles with a refined citrus bitterness typical of the finest Italian groves, where the fruit develops a floral, slightly peppered brightness absent in harsher varieties. Lemon follows, clean and sunlit, adding clarity and lift, while neroli—distilled from orange blossoms, traditionally associated with Mediterranean coastlines—brings a soft, honeyed floral glow that bridges citrus and blossom. 

A gentle peach note adds a velvety sweetness, more skin-like than fruity, rounding the freshness without heaviness. Galbanum introduces a sharply green, resinous bite—cool, sap-like, and slightly bitter—evoking crushed stems and fresh leaves. This verdancy is amplified by abstract green notes, modern aroma chemicals that recreate the sensation of dew, chlorophyll, and garden air, lending vibrancy and diffusion. Hyacinth contributes a watery floral greenness, while coriander and nutmeg add a subtle aromatic warmth, gently spicy and softly textured, preventing the opening from becoming too sharp or austere.

As the fragrance moves into its heart, the floral composition blooms with graceful complexity. Carnation brings a clove-tinged, peppery floral warmth, echoing vintage elegance while remaining refined. Lily of the valley introduces a sheer, luminous freshness—delicate, airy, and bell-like—its effect enhanced by synthetic muguet molecules that extend its radiance far beyond what natural materials alone can achieve. White lilies add creamy volume, while jasmine—soft, slightly indolic, and sensual—wraps the bouquet in warmth. 

Tuberose lends a narcotic richness, buttery and opulent, yet carefully restrained, while ylang-ylang contributes a tropical floral creaminess with hints of banana and spice, smoothing the composition. Rose appears polished and gentle rather than dominant, likely inspired by classic European varieties known for balance rather than intensity. Orris and iris deepen the heart with their signature powdery, root-like elegance—cool, violet-tinged, and softly earthy—qualities that develop slowly and lend the fragrance its refined couture character. Iris aldehydes enhance this effect, adding a silvery, airy shimmer, while violet contributes a delicate sweetness reminiscent of candied petals and cosmetic powder.

The base settles into a soft, enveloping embrace that feels both natural and meticulously constructed. Ambergris provides a warm, mineral glow—salty, musky, and slightly animalic—bringing depth and a subtle radiance that enhances longevity. Oakmoss, with its forest-like dampness and green-bitter complexity, anchors the fragrance in classic chypre tradition, while vetiver adds a dry, grassy woodiness, smoky and elegant, often prized from regions like Haiti for its refined, clean character.

 Cedarwood lends pencil-shaving dryness and structure, while sandalwood introduces a creamy, milky smoothness that softens the edges and creates sensual cohesion. Finally, musk—clean, velvety, and softly skin-like—wraps the entire composition in a powdery veil, enhancing intimacy and wearability. Modern musks amplify the warmth and diffusion of the natural woods and resins, ensuring the fragrance feels gentle, lasting, and effortlessly elegant.

Together, these elements create a perfume that feels tailored rather than ornate—fresh yet soft, floral yet green, powdery yet transparent. Léonard de Léonard is not about drama, but about refinement: a fragrance that breathes, moves, and lingers like fine fabric against the skin, embodying quiet confidence and timeless femininity.


Product Line:


In 1990/1991, Leonard de Leonard was available in the following formats:

  • Presentations: Eau de Parfum splash (50ml); EDP Spray (30ml, 50ml)
  • Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash (50ml, 100ml); EDT Spray (30ml, 50ml, 100ml)
  • Ancillary Products: Soap 9100g); Body Cream pot (200ml); Natural Deodorant spray (100ml)



Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1995, but most likely discontinued before 1998.

Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Fleurs d'Orlane by Orlane (1983)

Fleurs d’Orlane by Orlane was introduced in Europe in 1983 and launched in the United States the following year, in 1984—a moment when French luxury houses were reaffirming their authority in beauty through elegance, heritage, and refined femininity. The name Fleurs d’Orlane is French and translates simply to “Orlane’s Flowers.” Pronounced “flur dor-LAHN,” it immediately evokes a cultivated bouquet gathered not from a wild meadow, but from a manicured, luminous garden—one associated with skincare rituals, silk scarves, and quiet sophistication. The name suggests flowers as interpreted through Orlane’s distinctive lens: polished, graceful, and imbued with the brand’s scientific approach to beauty.

Founded in Paris in 1947, Orlane built its reputation at the intersection of luxury skincare and advanced cosmetic research. Known for combining cutting-edge science with refined French aesthetics, Orlane appealed to women who valued results as much as elegance. When the house turned to fragrance, it naturally sought to express this balance—floral beauty refined by precision and modernity. Fleurs d’Orlane was conceived not as a dramatic or provocative perfume, but as a signature of cultivated femininity, aligning perfectly with Orlane’s image of the intelligent, self-assured woman.

The early 1980s marked a fascinating transition in perfumery. While bold power fragrances and assertive chypres still dominated the landscape, there was a growing appetite for fresh floral bouquets that felt lighter, more luminous, and impeccably groomed. Fashion reflected this duality: structured silhouettes and tailored suits coexisted with fluid fabrics, soft pastels, and an emphasis on polish rather than excess. Fleurs d’Orlane spoke directly to women navigating this era—professionally confident yet elegant, drawn to fragrances that felt clean, feminine, and reassuringly French.

Interpreted in scent, the name Fleurs d’Orlane becomes a vision of freshly cut flowers arranged with precision. The fragrance opens with a fresh floral top, airy and bright, evoking morning light on petals still cool with dew. The heart expands into a harmonious floral bouquet, smooth and balanced rather than overwhelming—each blossom distinct yet seamlessly blended. The composition settles into a soft, powdery base, lending a cosmetic elegance reminiscent of fine face powder and silk gloves, a signature of classic French perfumery.

In the context of its time, Fleurs d’Orlane aligned with prevailing trends toward freshness and floral clarity, yet it distinguished itself through restraint and refinement. Rather than chasing intensity or drama, it offered a poised, beautifully composed alternative—an olfactory expression of Orlane’s philosophy. For women of the 1980s, it was not a fragrance that demanded attention, but one that quietly enhanced presence, embodying grace, confidence, and timeless Parisian femininity.



Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a fresh floral-bouquet fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh floral top, followed by a floral heart, resting on a powdery base.

Fleurs d’Orlane –A fragrance with dominant floral notes. The opening reveals fresh white-flower accords, leading into a warm, blooming floral bouquet at the heart, and settling into a lightly spicy, woody base. Light and optimistic, joyful and subtle, it is a feminine scent with a romantic touch of warm sensuality.

  • Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, peach, green notes, tagetes, lily, hyacinth
  • Middle notes: narcissus, lily, jasmine, lily of the valley, lilac, rose, carnation, tuberose, orchid, orris
  • Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, cedar, musk, benzoin, ambergris, styrax, honey


Scent Profile:


Fleurs d’Orlane opens like the first breath of a spring morning, luminous and gently radiant. Bergamot, prized from Calabria for its refined balance of brightness and floral softness, sparkles at the top, its citrus edge softened by mandarin, sweeter and rounder, and by the subtle juiciness of peach, whose velvety fruit note is enhanced by lactonic aroma-chemicals that lend a smooth, skin-like warmth. Orange blossom introduces a creamy, white-floral glow—both fresh and faintly honeyed—while green notes cut through with the crisp impression of crushed stems and leaves. Tagetes (marigold) adds an unexpected herbal sharpness with fruity-leathery nuances, lending sophistication and depth. Lily and hyacinth rise with cool, aqueous clarity, their naturally delicate aromas recreated and expanded through modern synthetics that give them diffusion, freshness, and a dewy translucence impossible to capture otherwise.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blooms into a generous, carefully orchestrated floral bouquet. Narcissus brings a green, slightly indolic warmth, both floral and earthy, setting a sensual undertone. Jasmine—soft and luminous—intertwines with lily of the valley, whose pure, bell-like freshness is expressed through elegant aroma-chemicals that convey its airy innocence. Lilac contributes a powdery, spring-garden sweetness, while rose—romantic and balanced—adds structure and emotional warmth. Carnation introduces a gentle clove-spiced facet, lending vintage elegance, and tuberose adds a creamy, voluptuous richness without overpowering the composition. Orchid brings a smooth, abstract floral softness, while orris, evocative of Florentine iris, provides a cool, buttery, cosmetic elegance—its powdery depth enhanced by refined iris molecules that give longevity and sophistication.

The base settles into a soft, comforting embrace, where warmth and subtle sensuality emerge. Vanilla offers gentle sweetness, enriched by vanillin to glow rather than dominate. Sandalwood, creamy and smooth, recalls fine, polished wood, while cedar adds dry, pencil-wood structure that keeps the composition upright and elegant. Musk, in its modern, clean form, creates a skin-like softness, allowing the fragrance to linger intimately. Benzoin and styrax contribute balsamic, resinous warmth—sweet, slightly smoky, and comforting—while ambergris, interpreted through contemporary amber molecules, adds radiance, diffusion, and a subtle mineral warmth. A final touch of honey lends golden sweetness, rounding the base with a soft, intimate glow.

Altogether, Fleurs d’Orlane is a refined floral symphony—light yet emotionally rich—where natural materials and carefully chosen aroma-chemicals work in harmony. The synthetics enhance clarity, lift, and longevity, allowing each floral note to feel fresh and joyful while resting on a powdery, woody base that whispers elegance and timeless femininity.


Product Line:


In 1984/1985, Fleurs d'Orlane was available in the following formats:

  • Presentations: Eau de Toilette Vaporisateur (50ml, 100ml)


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1998.


Fleurs d'Orlane Secret de Parfum (1990)


Fleurs d'Orlane Secret de Parfum was launched in 1990 as an eau de toilette.


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleurs d'Orlane Secret de Parfum begins with a hesperidic top, followed by a spicy floral heart, layered over a woodsy ambery base.

  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange blossom, lily of the valley, hyacinth
  • Middle notes: rose de mai, jasmine, coriander, Provencal carnation, pepper, violet, Florentine iris, Comoros ylang ylang
  • Base notes: ambergris, Singapore patchouli, vanilla, sandalwood, Brazilian vetiver

Scent Profile:


ne Secret de Parfum opens with a radiant, classical hesperidic freshness that feels both polished and quietly sensual. Bergamot, sourced from Calabria and prized for its refined balance of brightness and floral softness, sparkles with a green-citrus lift that feels elegant rather than sharp. Lemon adds a clean, crystalline flash, while mandarin brings a rounder, juicier sweetness that softens the citrus accord. Orange blossom follows, creamy and luminous, its honeyed floral warmth enhanced by modern white-floral aroma molecules that give it diffusion and a gentle glow. Lily of the valley and hyacinth lend a cool, aqueous freshness—notes that cannot be extracted naturally and are instead composed through sophisticated synthetics, capturing their dewy, bell-like purity and green translucence while extending their freshness on the skin.

The heart unfolds into a richly textured floral-spice composition that feels both romantic and refined. Rose de Mai, cultivated in Grasse and renowned for its soft, petal-like sweetness and subtle honeyed warmth, forms the emotional core, its natural delicacy amplified by rose molecules that enhance bloom and longevity. Jasmine adds a luminous, slightly indolic sensuality, creating depth and warmth. Provencal carnation introduces its unmistakable clove-like spice, earthy and elegant, while coriander adds a dry, citrusy spice that keeps the bouquet airy. A touch of pepper brings gentle heat and vibrancy, sharpening the florals without overwhelming them. Violet contributes a powdery, slightly metallic softness, and Florentine iris, evoked through precious orris and refined iris aldehydes, adds a cool, buttery elegance with cosmetic finesse. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros Islands—prized for its richness and creamy banana-spice facets—wraps the heart in an exotic warmth that feels sensual yet controlled.

As the fragrance settles, the base reveals a warm, enveloping depth that lingers intimately on the skin. Ambergris, interpreted through modern amber accords, radiates a soft mineral warmth that enhances diffusion and sensuality. Patchouli from Singapore, darker and smoother than many Indonesian varieties, brings a refined earthiness with chocolatey, slightly smoky undertones. Vanilla adds gentle sweetness, enriched by vanillin to glow softly rather than dominate. Sandalwood contributes creamy, polished warmth, while Brazilian vetiver anchors the composition with a dry, rooty elegance—less smoky and more refined than Haitian vetiver, lending clarity and structure to the base.

Together, Fleurs d’Orlane Secret de Parfum is a study in discreet opulence. Natural materials and modern aroma chemicals are woven seamlessly, with synthetics enhancing clarity, projection, and longevity while preserving the elegance of the florals and woods. The result is a fragrance that feels intimate yet luminous—fresh at first breath, warmly floral at its heart, and softly ambery and woody in its lingering trail.


Product Line:

In 1990/1991,  Fleurs d'Orlane Secret de Parfum was available in the following formats:

  • Presentations: Eau de Toilette splash (50ml, 100ml); Eau de Toilette Vaporisateur (25ml, 50ml, 100ml)
  • Ancillary Products: Single perfumed soap (100g box); Perfumed deodorant spray (150ml); Perfumed bath gel, tube (150ml); Perfumed body emulsion, tube (150ml)


Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Monday, July 21, 2025

Monsieur Venet by Philippe Venet (1969)

Monsieur Venet by Philippe Venet, launched in 1969 and introduced to the U.S. market in 1971, carries a name that immediately conveys sophistication, refinement, and personal identity. Monsieur Venet is French, pronounced as "muh-SYUR veh-NAH", and literally translates to “Mr. Venet.” The choice of this name is both personal and declarative: it links the fragrance directly to the designer while evoking the image of a confident, cultivated gentleman. The name suggests authority, elegance, and understated charisma—a man who is attentive to style, detail, and presence without needing ostentation. Emotionally, it evokes quiet confidence, composure, and sophistication, presenting masculinity as intelligent, modern, and self-assured rather than overtly aggressive.

The fragrance emerged at the turn of the 1970s, a period of significant cultural and social change. The late 1960s had ushered in an era of liberation, experimentation, and modernism, and the early 1970s saw fashion balancing classic tailoring with freer, more expressive forms. Men’s clothing incorporated structured suits alongside casual sportswear, and grooming habits were evolving toward refinement and personal expression. In perfumery, aromatic fougères and woody compositions were highly fashionable, often emphasizing herbal freshness, lavender, and mossy undertones. Yet Monsieur Venet stood out by combining these familiar elements with a bold, forward-looking aromatic character, making it feel modern, crisp, and unmistakably elegant.

The fragrance opens with vibrant citrus and aromatic herbs. Lemon essence delivers a clean, sparkling brightness, tinged with natural green facets, immediately awakening the senses. Tunisian rosemary adds aromatic depth, its resinous and slightly camphorous green facets bringing clarity and a fresh, Mediterranean brightness. Galbanum, a bitter, resinous green note, intensifies the verdant freshness, providing a structural backbone to the opening that is assertive yet sophisticated. High-quality lavender, meticulously sourced—often from the Plateau de Valensole in France—introduces a soft, herbal sweetness, aromatic yet refined, balancing the sharper green and citrus notes.

In the heart, Monsieur Venet develops with vetiver, geranium, and iris, which together create a rounded, elegant complexity. Vetiver, often sourced from Haiti or Java, provides a dry, earthy, slightly smoky underpinning, offering longevity and masculine refinement. Geranium adds a minty-rosy freshness that enhances the herbal quality of the top notes while softening their sharpness. Iris contributes powdery, slightly woody elegance, subtly elevating the fragrance from an aromatic composition to a polished, couture-inspired scent.

The base is anchored by sandalwood, Virginia cedar, and musk, offering warmth, depth, and tactile sophistication. Sandalwood, creamy and smooth, provides a sensual, almost velvety presence, while Virginia cedar adds dry, aromatic woodiness, balancing the creaminess of the sandalwood. Musk wraps the composition in understated sensuality, lending soft diffusion and a lingering, intimate finish. The overall effect is an aromatic woody fragrance that feels modern yet timeless, suitable for any occasion, with a personality that is not merely contemporary but ahead of its time.

In context, Monsieur Venet was both aligned with and distinguished from trends of its era. While aromatic fougères were popular, this fragrance elevated the genre through precision, clarity, and balance, with a strong green-aromatic opening and refined woody base that spoke to a discerning, cosmopolitan man. Its combination of freshness, herbal sophistication, and warm elegance positioned it as a forward-thinking signature scent, offering a modern interpretation of masculinity that resonated with men and women alike, symbolizing confidence, refinement, and subtle power.


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic woody fragrance for men. Monsieur Venet features dominant notes of lemon essence, Tunisian rosemary, galbanum, and high-quality lavender. Its composition includes vetiver, sandalwood, Virginia cedar, geranium, iris, and musk. The fragrance’s personality is not merely different—it is ahead of its time. The Philippe Venet “Monsieur” line represents a distinctive expression of the modern man. Suitable for all occasions. 

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, petitgrain, lemon essence,neroli, orange blossom, galbanum, lavender
  • Middle notes: lavandin, linalool, thyme, marjoram, clary sage, pepper, juniper, pine needle, Tunisian rosemary, geranium, iris
  • Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, Virginian cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, tonka bean, civet


Scent Profile:

h with an unmistakable aromatic clarity. This interplay of citrus, herbal, and green notes sets a modern, invigorating tone—a fragrance that announces sophistication with energy.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a rich, aromatic landscape. Lavandin and linalool enhance the lavender faceted, giving it a brighter, more diffusive character, while thyme, marjoram, and clary sage contribute a herbal, slightly camphorous vibrancy reminiscent of a sun-drenched Mediterranean garden. Pepper and juniper lend a subtle spice and crispness, introducing warmth and movement that balances the green top notes. Pine needle reinforces a forest-like freshness, evoking the aromatic complexity of nature itself. 

The florals—Tunisian rosemary, geranium, and iris—emerge with elegance: rosemary’s camphorous sharpness adds clarity and a Mediterranean brightness; geranium brings a minty-rosy lift, and iris lends a powdery, almost suede-like sophistication. Together, these notes create a heart that is both aromatic and aromatic-woody, bridging the sparkling freshness of the opening with the grounded warmth of the base.

In the base, Monsieur Venet reveals its masculine depth and enduring sophistication. Oakmoss provides the classical chypre-like structure, its dry, earthy bitterness enhancing longevity and giving a sense of shadowed refinement. Patchouli adds subtle earthiness and aromatic richness, while Virginian cedar and sandalwood contribute dry and creamy woody layers—cedar, crisp and aromatic, and sandalwood, velvety and warm, creating a tactile elegance. 

Vetiver, with its Haitian or Javan origin, brings dry, rooty sophistication with faint smokiness, balancing the creaminess of the woods. Ambergris, tonka bean, and civet provide depth, warmth, and a soft animalic sensuality: ambergris offers a mineral, almost marine warmth; tonka bean gives a subtle vanillic sweetness; and civet enhances skin-like longevity and intimacy. Finally, musk smooths the composition, creating a lingering, understated sensuality that ties top, heart, and base into a cohesive whole.

The genius of Monsieur Venet lies in the interplay between natural absolutes and synthetic enhancements. Aldehydes, linalool, and certain aroma chemicals boost clarity, diffusion, and lift, allowing the natural botanicals to shine while ensuring the fragrance remains modern and wearable. From the sparkling Mediterranean-inspired top to the aromatic, herbal heart and the rich, woody-animalic base, the perfume is a complete expression of masculine sophistication—fresh yet warm, lively yet composed, modern yet timeless. It is a fragrance that defines the “modern man” in 1969, elegant, confident, and unmistakably ahead of its time.


Product Line:

In 1969/1970, Monsieur Venet was available in Eau de Toilette. (Very modern presentation composed of plastic, metal and glass.) 

In 1972/1973, Monsieur was available in the following:

  • For grooming: Eau de Toilette (glass bottle with special plastic travel case, 2 oz, 4 oz, and 8 oz sizes); Eau de Toilette Silver Spray (4 oz, white packaging); Eau de Cologne Silver Spray (4 oz, black packaging)
  • For shaving: After Shave Spray (4 oz, brown packaging)
  • Related products: Deodorant Spray (4 oz, yellow packaging)


Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Friday, July 18, 2025

Tailoring for Men by Clinique (1984)

Tailoring for Men by Clinique Laboratories was launched in 1984, marking the brand’s first foray into men’s fragrance. Released under the Estée Lauder umbrella, the name Tailoring for Men was chosen with intention — evoking images of precision, refinement, and the assurance of personal style. The phrase calls to mind the quiet confidence of a man dressed in a custom-cut suit, polished but never ostentatious. In the context of fragrance, Tailoring becomes a metaphor: just as tailoring shapes and defines the silhouette, this scent is positioned as the final element in a man’s daily ensemble — the invisible layer that refines and completes his presence.

The campaign described the fragrance as “the final step you take in dressing each morning,” aligning it not with luxury for luxury’s sake, but with the practical elegance of grooming and personal order. Tailoring, in this sense, symbolizes discipline and sophistication — values that were becoming increasingly important to men in the mid-1980s. This was a decade in which masculinity was being redefined: self-care and appearance were no longer taboo for the American man. For the first time, skincare, grooming, and fragrance were not just accepted — they were expected parts of a professional man’s routine.

Culturally, 1984 sat squarely within the "power decade" — a time of sharp business suits, structured silhouettes, and Wall Street ambition. The era was dominated by a vision of success rooted in control and surface polish. From Armani’s unstructured suits to Ralph Lauren’s tailored Americana, fashion promoted confidence, aspiration, and personal curation. Fragrance mirrored this aesthetic: men's scents trended toward clean, bracing compositions — often citrusy, green, aromatic, or fougère in style — offering freshness, stamina, and subtle authority.

Welcome!

Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

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