Conquete by Lancome (1935)

Conquête by Lancôme was launched in 1935, a year that marked the grand debut of the French house itself. The fragrance was one of the five original perfumes introduced by Armand Petitjean at the International Exposition in Brussels—each conceived to express a unique facet of femininity and French sophistication. Petitjean, a former Coty executive and an admirer of French culture and elegance, named this scent Conquête, a French word meaning "conquest" or "the act of conquering." Pronounced kohn-KET (with a soft nasal "on"), the name evokes a sense of triumph, seduction, and bold elegance. It was a deliberate, aspirational title, reflecting Petitjean's vision not only for the fragrance itself but also for the brand: "It was necessary to conquer the world to make the reputation of Lancôme’s willpower," he once declared. Conquête symbolized more than just olfactory delight—it was a statement of ambition and feminine power.

The word Conquête conjures imagery of elegance and allure—perhaps a woman entering a grand theater, her presence commanding attention with just a trace of scent. There is a suggestion of determination and sophistication wrapped in mystery. In scent, Conquête interprets this theme through a bold aldehydic opening, followed by a heart of sumptuous roses—full-bodied and romantic—resting on a leathery, mossy chypre base. The leather lends an animalic sensuality, while the moss grounds the fragrance in the timeless language of classical perfumery. The overall effect is both commanding and deeply feminine.

Launched during a dynamic and transitional time in European history, Conquête emerged in the interwar period—a moment of reinvention and revival after the trauma of World War I. The 1930s in France were characterized by a return to luxury, with couture regaining its footing and perfumery entering what many call its golden age. Aldehydic florals had been firmly established by the immense success of Chanel No. 5 in the 1920s, and by the mid-1930s, perfumers were refining this style into more daring and individualized expressions. While Conquête echoes this aldehydic tradition, its use of rich leather and a dominant rose note set it apart. It was less powdery and ethereal than its predecessors—instead, it was rooted in the tactile richness of a rose-laced chypre.

Women of the time would have related to Conquête as an emblem of modern elegance and feminine confidence. This was the era of Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, of structured silhouettes, bias-cut gowns, and strong personalities on screen and in society. Conquête would have appealed to the stylish woman who sought to make an impression—not through overt sweetness, but through cultivated presence. Its floral heart was romantic, but the leathery base spoke of strength, mystery, and independence.

While Conquête followed certain trends of its era—particularly the aldehydic floral tradition—it also distinguished itself through its bold chypre structure and rich use of leather. It was not merely an echo of Chanel No. 5 but a reinterpretation with a distinct voice—less abstract, more carnal. In the broader context of perfumery, it fit squarely within the sophisticated and often daring spirit of the 1930s, yet it also anticipated the post-war return to classical French perfumery, where fragrances were not just accessories but personal emblems of taste and identity.

As one of Lancôme’s founding fragrances, Conquête remains a testament to Petitjean’s original vision: perfume as an art of seduction, a language of elegance, and a declaration of a woman’s power to enchant and to conquer.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Conquete by Lancome is classified as a floral chypre perfume with intense notes of rose and leather.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Tunisian orange, Italian neroli, Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: Indian carnation, Malabar black pepper, Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris, Egyptian jasmine, Moroccan rose
• Base notes: leather, Tibetan musk, Iranian galbanum, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean, Cyprus labdanum

Armand Petitjean:

"Conquete, a concentrated fragrance of roses on a chypre base, will please any woman who likes to be noticed when she enters the theatre or a restaurant. Conquête was a demonstration of mine. It was a symbol of conquest. It was necessary to conquer the world to make the reputation of Lancome's willpower." 

Paris-Alger, 1935:

"Lancôme introduces five distinctive new fragrances, each with its own unique character: Kypre is a velvety, floral interpretation of the classic chypre—richer and deeper than the traditional formulation, with an elegant softness that lingers. Tendres Nuits opens unexpectedly with the cool clarity of lavender, soon melting into the lush sweetness of exotic fruits, creating a fragrance that feels both fresh and seductive. Bocages captures the spirit of youth and laughter. Its bright honeysuckle heart seems to bloom from a radiant double foundation of jasmine and mimosa, making it feel like sunshine on skin. Conquête is a scent of discreet opulence—an intimate luxury reminiscent in spirit of Chanel No. 5, though with a distinctly different olfactory path. Tropiques unfolds like a warm symphony, full of surprises. Bright, brassy top notes shine through, adding sparkle and energy to its sultry, enveloping warmth. Each fragrance offers a mood, a moment, a memory—crafted with the refined artistry Lancôme is known for."

Times Colonist, 1946:

"Perfectly named for it is indeed the forerunner of conquests and, as it passes, it leaves a track, radiating a powerful odor or roses, as it subsides, a beautiful flow of chypre ceaselessly upholds it. Colorful, sunny, dynamic, throwing out a thousand sparks before unwinding a long, sweet melody."

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Parfumée à Conquête by Lancôme unfolds as a bold carnation scent, spiced with pepper and shadowed by a musky undertone that intensifies its intrigue—evoking a rose asleep in its own secrets. There’s a smoldering sensuality in its leathery notes, unmistakably conjuring a journey through Spain. Even when worn sparingly, this fragrance demands a warm complexion and a fiery spirit—like that of a Sevillian dancer poised under the sun. I imagine her crossing a sun-cracked plaza, the heat radiating from the stones. A carnation, blood-red with jagged petals, is tucked behind her ear, nestled against her bronze skin and midnight-dark hair."

Scent Profile:

As I bring Conquête by Lancôme to the skin, it opens not with subtlety but with a confident, sparkling burst—an aldehydic shimmer that feels like silk warmed by sunlight. These aldehydes, likely C11 and C12 series, are radiant and expansive, lending an effervescent, champagne-like quality that elevates the natural citrus notes that follow. Each aldehyde molecule is a sculptor of brightness, exaggerating the freshness of fruits, the airiness of florals, and creating that intangible "lift" associated with classic French perfumery.

Immediately chasing that shimmering veil comes a vivid cocktail of citrus oils: Sicilian lemon, zesty and tangy, carries a sun-baked brightness with a slight bitterness to balance sweetness. Sicily’s warm, volcanic soil produces lemons with deeper aromatic oils than those from other regions. Tunisian orange adds a honeyed juiciness—sweeter and rounder than other varieties, and its slightly floral nuance bridges seamlessly into the Italian neroli, an oil steam-distilled from bitter orange blossoms. Neroli from Italy is famed for its purity and clarity—less green and metallic than Moroccan or Egyptian types—here it brings a dewy, white-petaled coolness. Calabrian bergamot, prized for its balance of sweet, tart, and slightly woody facets, lends a velvety citrus finish, its essence softened by aldehydes into something that glows rather than bites.

The heart unfolds more slowly, blooming like silk unfurling in warm air. Indian carnation asserts itself with its clove-like spiciness—a bold and peppery floral that speaks with authority. The presence of Malabar black pepper, one of the most aromatic and complex peppers in the world, harvested along India’s humid southwest coast, enhances this note with a crackle of warmth and dry spice, adding a touch of sensual tension. Into this spice-laced core steps the reigning queen—Bulgarian rose, lush, jammy, and intensely rich. This rose is darker and deeper than the Moroccan counterpart also present here, which brings a fresher, greener, slightly fruitier aspect, almost like the memory of rosehips and crushed leaves. Together, they form a dual rose accord: opulent and intimate.

Balancing the floral heat is Florentine iris—not the bright, rooty kind, but the soft, suede-like butter known as orris. It adds a velvety coolness, evoking powdered gloves and antique dressing tables. The Egyptian jasmine, narcotic and humid, lends a golden density, and its indolic quality deepens the romantic atmosphere. These middle notes feel layered and alive—floral, spicy, and thick with late-afternoon shadow

As the base reveals itself, the perfume’s namesake intention—conquest—becomes apparent. Leather strides in with assertiveness, rich and animalic, reminiscent of the scent of fine gloves or a well-worn saddle warmed by the sun. Tibetan musk, likely a botanical or synthetic recreation of natural musk, underscores this accord with a sensual hum—warm, skin-like, and gently feral. Iranian galbanum, sharp and green with a resinous, balsamic undertone, slices through the plushness, adding structure and a bitter elegance.

Tylorean oakmoss, drawn from the mountainous woods of Austria, gives the base its classical chypre depth—earthy, forest-like, and faintly mineral. Its particular terroir makes it drier and more austere than French varieties. Indonesian patchouli brings its unmistakable richness: dark, woody, and slightly camphorous, with a touch of damp earth. Its role here is both grounding and sensual. Mysore sandalwood smooths the rougher edges, lending a soft, creamy warmth, its milky, incense-like facets unmatched by modern substitutes.

Finally, a glimmer of ambergris—marine, slightly salty, and musky—adds a strange, almost primordial allure. Venezuelan tonka bean and Cyprus labdanum bring their sweet-balsamic resinousness, the tonka rounding things with warm coumarin notes of vanilla, tobacco, and hay, while the labdanum adds a smoky, leathery stickiness that echoes the top notes with an animalic wink.

The whole composition feels meticulously constructed: radiant yet shadowed, floral yet earthy, sweet yet dry. Conquête is not a perfume of flirtation—it is a statement of elegant dominance. It captures the image of a woman in command of her presence, leaving behind a trail not of prettiness, but of power cloaked in velvet.

Bottles:

Deluxe Bottle:

The deluxe flacon for Conquete was presented in its square presentation box, covered in multicolored embossed paper decorated with marbled patterns and titled. The rare bottle is made of colorless molded-pressed glass, rectangular in shape, with a square body adorned with a molded motif of scattered pearls. It is topped with a pearl-shaped stopper and bears a gold-embossed label. Both the bottle and its box were designed by Georges Delhomme (1904–1989) and manufactured by Verrières de la Bresle. Height: 8 cm.

Limited Edition Bottle:

Bottle composed entirely of swirling curves, made of frosted and polished glass, with a matching stopper. Housed in a decorative box featuring tropical birds and flowers. The bottle was designed by Jean Sala, and the box by Adrien Leduc. Limited edition. Circa 1944. Height: 12 cm. Box dimensions: 16 x 12 cm.

Jasmine Bottle:

Colorless glass flacon with an intaglio-molded stopper adorned with jasmine blossoms. Housed in a goldsmith-style lidded case. Height: 9 cm. Originally created in 1935, this elegant standard bottle design was also used for other Lancôme fragrances.

Heart Bottle:

The bottle shown below, crafted from frosted and polished glass, features an abstract heart-shaped form and is topped with a gilded screw cap.

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

During World War II, the elegant bottles and refined fragrances of Lancôme vanished from American shelves. Importations of some of the house’s most beloved perfumes—Tropiques, Tendres Nuit, Flèches, Cuir, Conquête, Bocages, Peut-Être, and Kypre—were halted during the war years. For American women, who had grown accustomed to the French luxury of Lancome’s perfumes, their disappearance marked not just a loss of a favorite scent, but a symbolic absence of beauty and romance amid a time of uncertainty and austerity.

It wasn’t until 1946, in the immediate aftermath of war, that these fragrances returned. A newspaper article from that year captured the significance of their reappearance. It reported the arrival of the first envoy of the French perfume industry to America: Madame Elsi Cramer, a representative of Lancôme. She brought with her not only the coveted perfumes, but also a certain philosophy—one that contrasted the American focus on longevity with the French art of perfuming oneself thoughtfully and gracefully. Madame Cramer observed that American women often chose perfumes based solely on how long the scent would last, overlooking the craftsmanship behind the floral accords, the base compositions, and the thoughtful packaging. Instead, she encouraged a more refined ritual: carrying a small vial of your favorite scent and reapplying with care throughout the evening. The effect, she explained, would be fresher, more elegant, and more evocative—like perfume “just put on.”

The perfumes returning with Mme. Cramer—Tropiques, Flèches, Cuir, Kypre, Conquête, Qui Sait (pronounced "key-say," meaning Who Knows?), and Bocages—were not simply reissues. Their arrival was symbolic. These were fragrances whose formulas had been closely guarded during the German occupation of France, preserved with vigilance during years of turmoil. The scarcity of fine materials and the dangers of wartime only deepened the reverence with which these perfumes were treated. Mme. Cramer emphasized that each bottle, every drop, carried with it not just artistry, but the resilience and hardship of a nation that had suffered. These perfumes were no longer just luxury items—they were emblems of cultural endurance, of beauty surviving in the face of adversity.

American women, once again able to enjoy true French perfumery, were encouraged to see beyond the scent alone. With each atomizer and artfully crafted flacon, there came a story—a memory of resistance, of craftsmanship preserved in secret, of formulas guarded like treasures. These were perfumes that meant something. They were not just “more sweet-smelling stuff,” as Mme. Cramer put it, but a revival of something deeply cherished, hard-earned, and now—finally—restored.

Conquête by Lancôme was originally launched in 1935 as part of the brand’s inaugural collection, introduced by Armand Petitjean at the Universal Exhibition in Brussels. It was conceived as a statement of elegance and quiet power—a floral chypre with rich rose and leather accords meant to embody a woman’s allure and ability to enchant. The name Conquête, meaning “conquest” in French (pronounced kohn-kett), suggested both romantic and personal triumph. It was a perfume of ambition, sophistication, and the unmistakable polish of Parisian femininity.

However, the trajectory of Conquête was interrupted by the global upheaval of World War II. Like many luxury goods from occupied France, its production and export were severely disrupted. During the war years, it disappeared from American shelves entirely, along with other Lancôme fragrances. Only after the war ended in 1945 did Conquête—along with its siblings like Tropiques, Cuir, and Kypre—begin to trickle back into the U.S. market. In 1946, it was reintroduced to American women as a symbol not only of French perfumery’s return, but of its resilience. The formula, like others in the house's portfolio, had been closely guarded during the occupation, a fact that added to the reverence with which it was received in the postwar era.

Despite its early success and its reputation as a luxurious, womanly scent, Conquête quietly faded from Lancôme’s active catalogue by the mid-1960s. The fragrance was officially discontinued in 1965. Its departure marked the end of an era—one in which classic aldehydic florals and chypres reigned supreme, before the advent of the lighter, more casual scents that would dominate in the decades to follow. Today, Conquête is remembered as a lost treasure of early 20th-century perfumery, a fragrance that captured the aspirations and elegance of a generation.