Flatterie by Houbigant (1955)

Flatterie by Houbigant, launched in 1955, arrived at a time when femininity and refinement were being redefined in postwar Europe and America. The name Flatterie—pronounced "flah-tuh-ree" in layman's French—translates to "flattery" or "compliment." It’s a term laden with charm and intrigue, suggesting a gentle persuasion, the art of praise, and the subtle seduction of compliments whispered in passing. By choosing this name, Houbigant evoked a sense of coquettish grace and continental elegance, ideal for a woman who wanted her fragrance to express both delicacy and allure. It painted a picture of silk gloves, softly spoken words, and romantic Parisian afternoons.

The 1950s were an era marked by the return to tailored glamour after the utilitarian years of World War II. Dior's "New Look" had reintroduced cinched waists, full skirts, and an appreciation for feminine curves. Perfume followed suit, with compositions that often balanced luxurious florals and crisp aldehydes with sensual bases. Flatterie fits perfectly within this world—elegant, clean, softly powdery, but also slightly daring in its use of spiced and earthy elements. It was both a fragrance for the well-bred woman and a nod to the complexity simmering beneath her polished exterior.

Upon the first inhale, Flatterie opens with aldehydes—sparkling, airy, and slightly soapy—instantly giving the impression of freshness and high quality. These are joined by dew-touched cyclamen and the narcotic beauty of honeysuckle and narcissus, a blend that smells like a spring garden just kissed by rain. In the heart, a lush bouquet of white florals—gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, jonquil, lily, and jasmine—unfolds with creamy, heady richness. This core feels tactile, like running your fingers through petals still warm from the sun. The addition of clove adds a distinctive edge—slightly medicinal, slightly spiced—evoking the realism of crushed stems and pollen-laden blooms.

The drydown settles into a sophisticated chypre structure, anchored by the dusky richness of moss, incense, and the smooth caress of vanilla. This foundation lends the scent a timeless character, recalling the gentle luxury of fine French toilet soap—a comment often made at the time as the ultimate compliment to cleanliness and grace.

In the context of the perfume market in 1955, Flatterie was in line with popular trends—aldehydic florals with classic chypre bases were still the height of elegance. However, the addition of clove, the realism of the garden notes, and the soft-soap finish gave Flatterie a distinct voice among its peers. Women of the time would have seen Flatterie as polished, refined, and subtly flirtatious—perfect for daytime wear, an office setting, or an elegant luncheon. It was an olfactory expression of compliments received—and gracefully returned.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Flatterie by Houbigant is classified as a soft floral chypre fragrance for women. Top notes are aldehydic and sweet with the dewy notes of cyclamen, narcissus and honeysuckle, the heart features a profusion of white flowers: gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, jonquil, lily and jasmine, it is also slightly medicinal with the pungency of clove, like a fresh garden. It is rounded out with a classic chypre base accented with incense and vanilla.  

• Top notes: aldehydes, Grecian cyclamen, American wisteria, Italian neroli, Calabrian bergamot, Dutch honeysuckle, Moroccan narcissus, French amaryllis
• Middle notes: Chinese gardenia, Zanzibar clove, French jonquil, Swiss lilac, Peruvian heliotrope, Tunisian orange blossom, Indian tuberose, lily, Florentine iris, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Grasse rose, Egyptian jasmine
• Base notes: Venezuelan tonka bean, Mexican vanilla, Singapore patchouli, Tyrolean oakmoss, Florentine orris, ambergris, Tonkin musk, Mysore sandalwood, Omani frankincense

Combat, 1955:

"Flatterie (fragrant cologne) by Houbigant – Brimming with radiant aldehydes, Flatterie opens with a burst of effervescent youth. This is a perfume that caresses the senses—an olfactory flirtation, much like the seductive murmurings of Don Juan himself. Shades of narcissus, heliotrope, and amaryllis drift like silken veils through a soft, melting chypre base—elegant, ephemeral, and utterly entrancing. Ideal for the casino or the fashionable woman about town, it evokes a day spent wrapped in the freshness of fine cologne, culminating in the rediscovery of the richer extrait—a symbol of the bewitching whirlwind it leaves in its wake."

Scent Profile:

Flatterie by Houbigant, introduced in 1955, is a masterful composition that embodies the elegance and sophistication of mid-20th-century perfumery. This soft floral chypre fragrance unfolds in a harmonious blend of natural essences and synthetic molecules, creating a scent that is both timeless and evocative.

The fragrance opens with a luminous burst of aldehydes, imparting a sparkling, effervescent quality that evokes the crispness of freshly laundered linens and the brightness of morning light. These synthetic compounds enhance the natural top notes, amplifying their freshness and adding a modern touch to the composition. Grecian cyclamen introduces a delicate, dewy floralcy, while American wisteria adds a soft, honeyed sweetness. Italian neroli and Calabrian bergamot provide a zesty, citrusy brightness, their Mediterranean origins contributing to their vibrant, sun-kissed aromas. Dutch honeysuckle brings a nectarous, slightly green nuance, and Moroccan narcissus offers a rich, heady floral note with subtle indolic facets. French amaryllis rounds out the top with a sweet, slightly spicy floralcy, adding depth and complexity.

As the fragrance transitions to its heart, a luxurious bouquet of white florals emerges. Chinese gardenia and Indian tuberose impart creamy, voluptuous notes, their exotic origins lending an opulent richness. Tunisian orange blossom adds a bright, sweet floralcy with a hint of citrus, while French jonquil and Swiss lilac contribute a fresh, green floral character. Peruvian heliotrope introduces a powdery, almond-like sweetness, and Florentine iris offers a soft, buttery texture with earthy undertones. Nossi-Bé ylang ylang, sourced from the island off Madagascar, brings a lush, tropical floralcy with hints of banana and custard. Grasse rose and Egyptian jasmine, both renowned for their exceptional quality, provide a classic floral elegance, their rich, intoxicating aromas forming the heart of the composition. Zanzibar clove adds a subtle spiciness, its slightly medicinal note enhancing the natural facets of the florals and adding an intriguing contrast.

The base of Flatterie is a classic chypre accord, characterized by its earthy, woody, and mossy notes. Tyrolean oakmoss imparts a damp, forest-like aroma, grounding the fragrance with its deep, green richness. Singapore patchouli adds a dark, earthy depth with a hint of sweetness, while Mysore sandalwood contributes a creamy, milky woodiness, its Indian origin known for its unparalleled quality. Omani frankincense introduces a resinous, smoky facet, adding a spiritual, meditative quality. Florentine orris provides a soft, powdery texture, enhancing the floral notes and adding a touch of vintage elegance. Venezuelan tonka bean and Mexican vanilla infuse the base with a warm, sweet gourmand quality, their rich, comforting aromas enveloping the wearer. Ambergris, with its marine, animalic nuances, adds a subtle sensuality, while Tonkin musk provides a soft, skin-like warmth, enhancing the overall depth and longevity of the fragrance.

Flatterie is a testament to Houbigant's mastery in blending natural and synthetic ingredients to create a fragrance that is both sophisticated and alluring. Its intricate composition captures the essence of femininity, making it a timeless classic that continues to enchant and captivate.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.