Di Borghese, launched in 1978, was the signature fragrance of the Borghese beauty house founded by Princess Marcella Borghese, a member of one of Italy’s most storied noble families. Born Marcella Fazi in Rome in 1911, she married Prince Paolo Borghese and eventually brought the elegance of Italian aristocratic beauty culture to the United States. Through her Borghese cosmetics line, she built a brand that blended Old World heritage with modern glamour, introducing American consumers to Italian beauty rituals inspired by Renaissance art, noble traditions, and the refinement of Roman high society.
The name “Di Borghese” draws directly from the Italian language. In simple terms, it translates to “of Borghese” or “from the Borghese family.” In Italian naming traditions, the word di often signifies lineage or belonging—suggesting heritage, ancestry, or noble association. Pronounced roughly “dee bor-GAY-zay” in everyday English phonetics, the phrase immediately evokes aristocratic lineage, European elegance, and centuries of cultural refinement. By choosing this name, the fragrance positions itself not merely as a perfume but as an inheritance of style, suggesting that the wearer participates in the legacy and glamour of the Borghese dynasty.
The Borghese family itself has a long and remarkable history dating back to medieval Siena. Over the centuries, the family rose to prominence through commerce, politics, and church influence, eventually producing Pope Paul V, one of the most powerful popes of the early 17th century. The Borghese name also became intertwined with European aristocracy and art patronage, most famously through the lavish Roman palace and museum known as Villa Borghese. The family’s lineage even crossed paths with the Napoleonic era when Pauline Bonaparte married Prince Camillo Borghese, bringing a hint of scandalous glamour to the dynasty. By invoking this heritage in its marketing narrative, the perfume frames itself as a sensory heirloom—something imbued with centuries of romance, intrigue, and power.
The phrase “Di Borghese. The perfume of the night.” reinforces this aristocratic fantasy. The name conjures images of candlelit palazzos, Renaissance ballrooms, and moonlit Roman terraces. One imagines velvet gowns sweeping marble floors, glittering jewels catching the light, and whispered conversations during elegant evening galas. The emotions attached to the name are those of luxury, mystery, and cultivated femininity. It suggests a woman who is poised and confident, someone whose presence is both graceful and quietly commanding. The fragrance promises not simply scent but an atmosphere—an aura of noble allure.
When Di Borghese appeared in 1978, the perfume world was experiencing the bold aesthetic of the late 1970s glamour era, a period bridging the decadence of the disco age and the sophisticated power dressing that would define the coming decade. Fashion during this time favored fluid evening gowns, satin blouses, dramatic jewelry, and sleek silhouettes inspired by both European couture and Hollywood sophistication. Designers such as Halston and Yves Saint Laurent popularized sensual eveningwear that emphasized elegance and confidence. Women were increasingly embracing professional independence while also indulging in expressions of luxury and personal identity.
Perfumery of the late 1970s reflected this cultural mood. Fragrances tended to be assertive, complex, and elegant, often featuring dramatic florals, mossy chypres, and rich oriental accords. Perfume was not meant to be subtle background decoration—it was a statement accessory, as important as a designer dress or a pair of jeweled earrings. Within this context, Di Borghese’s classification as a green floral chypre placed it squarely within one of the most fashionable olfactory families of the era.
The fragrance composition itself mirrors the imagery suggested by its name. It begins with a fresh, verdant green opening, suggesting crushed leaves, cool stems, and the crisp vitality of a Tuscan garden at dusk. This freshness gives way to a lush, exotic floral heart, enriched with subtle spices that add intrigue and complexity. The florals feel opulent rather than delicate—more like a bouquet arranged for an evening reception than a simple daytime posy. Finally, the fragrance settles into a warm, woody, powdery base, where mossy chypre elements mingle with soft woods and velvety warmth. The effect is elegant and enveloping, a scent described as “opulent as heirloom jewels.”
For women in 1978, a perfume called Di Borghese would have carried strong aspirational appeal. The late twentieth century saw increasing fascination with European aristocratic lifestyle—particularly Italian sophistication associated with art, fashion, and cinema. Wearing the fragrance allowed a woman to participate in this narrative. It suggested refinement, cosmopolitan taste, and a touch of romantic mystery. The wearer could imagine herself stepping into an elegant Roman evening, even if she were attending a cocktail party in New York or Los Angeles.
In terms of its place within the broader fragrance market, Di Borghese was both on trend and distinctive. The green floral chypre structure aligned with popular perfume styles of the period, which favored complex florals grounded in mossy bases. However, the fragrance’s branding—rooted so strongly in aristocratic heritage and Renaissance imagery—set it apart from many contemporary perfumes that leaned more heavily into modern glamour or overt sensuality. Instead, Di Borghese offered a blend of historical romance and modern sophistication, positioning itself as a bridge between centuries of Italian elegance and the confident femininity of the late twentieth century.
Ultimately, Di Borghese was conceived as more than a perfume. It was presented as a legacy captured in scent—a fragrance inspired by centuries of Italian culture, interpreted for the modern woman of the 1970s. Through its name, imagery, and composition, it invited the wearer to step into a story of nobility, beauty, and evening glamour, embodying what the brand described as “the new Renaissance woman.”
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Di Borghese is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women. A sophisticated floral blend with woody undertones and a gentle fresh green top note. It starts with a fresh verdant green top, followed by an exotic floral heart punctuated with rare spices, resting on a warm, woody, powdery base.
- Top notes: bergamot, citrus oils, green note complex, galbanum, spearmint, hyacinth, peach
- Middle notes: jasmine, narcissus, clove, rose, carnation, cyclamen, orchid, orris, ylang ylang, and lily of the valley.
- Base notes: benzoin, Virginia cedar, musk, ambergris, sandalwood, oakmoss and spices
Scent Profile:
The first impression of Di Borghese opens like stepping into a cool Italian garden just as evening begins to fall. The air sparkles with the bright citrus radiance of bergamot, traditionally cultivated in Calabria along Italy’s southern coast. Calabrian bergamot is considered the finest in perfumery because the region’s Mediterranean climate produces fruit with an especially nuanced oil—more floral and softly bitter than the sharper citrus oils grown elsewhere. When its essence is expressed from the peel, it releases a fragrance that is simultaneously sunny and elegant: luminous citrus with delicate floral undertones.
Supporting this brightness are other citrus oils, likely including lemon and perhaps sweet orange, lending a crisp, juicy sparkle that feels refreshing and invigorating, like the scent of sunlight glancing across polished marble terraces. Almost immediately, this citrus brilliance is softened by a green note complex, an accord created through a combination of natural extracts and aroma chemicals designed to evoke the scent of crushed leaves, young stems, and spring sap. In perfumery, such green effects often rely on molecules like cis-3-hexenol or related compounds, which smell vividly like freshly cut grass or snapped vines. These synthetics are essential because no single natural extract perfectly reproduces that bright “green” sensation; they give the perfume its living, verdant character.
Threaded through this opening greenery is galbanum, one of perfumery’s most distinctive green materials. Galbanum resin comes from a plant native to Iran and parts of the Middle East, where the dry climate concentrates its aromatic sap. When distilled, it produces a piercingly green scent—sharp, bitter, and almost electric—like the smell released when a thick stem is snapped open in the garden. Persian galbanum is prized because it is especially intense and complex, capable of giving perfumes a vivid botanical realism. Against this dramatic green note drifts the cool sweetness of spearmint, which brings a breezy, aromatic lift reminiscent of crushed mint leaves between the fingers.
The top also carries the watery floral freshness of hyacinth. True hyacinth absolute exists but is extraordinarily rare and expensive, so perfumers often recreate its fragrance through a blend of natural extracts and synthetic molecules that capture its crisp, slightly green floral aroma—the scent of damp petals and spring bulbs just breaking through the soil. Softening the composition is a touch of peach, whose velvety sweetness suggests ripe fruit warmed by the sun. Peach notes in perfume usually come from lactone aroma chemicals, which produce a creamy, fuzzy fruit effect; these molecules give the perfume a subtle roundness, preventing the vivid green opening from feeling too austere.
As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blossoms into a luxurious bouquet of flowers layered with delicate spice. At its center lies jasmine, likely inspired by the legendary jasmine harvested in Grasse, France, or possibly from India or Egypt. Jasmine flowers must be picked at dawn when their fragrance is strongest, and their absolute smells intoxicating—rich, honeyed, and slightly animalic, with hints of warm skin and sun-drenched petals.
Alongside it is narcissus, a flower that grows abundantly in southern France and the Mediterranean hillsides. Narcissus absolute has a darker personality than most florals: green, leathery, and faintly hay-like, with an earthy undertone that adds depth and intrigue. This is contrasted by the spice of clove, derived from dried flower buds grown primarily in Indonesia and Madagascar. Clove oil smells warm, fiery, and slightly medicinal due to its high eugenol content, and in perfumery it gives floral notes a dramatic, almost vintage elegance.
The floral theme deepens with rose, the eternal queen of perfumery. The finest rose oils come from places like Bulgaria’s famed Rose Valley or from Turkey’s Isparta region, where cool mornings help preserve the delicate aroma in the petals. True rose absolute smells lush and romantic, combining honey, spice, and fresh petals in a complex harmony. Carnation, often recreated through eugenol-based accords rather than natural extraction, adds a spicy floral nuance reminiscent of clove and peppered petals.
Cyclamen, by contrast, is entirely a perfumer’s creation; the real flower produces no extractable scent, so its watery, airy floral aroma is composed through synthetic molecules that evoke fresh dew on petals. Orchid notes are also imaginative accords rather than natural extracts, suggesting creamy, exotic florals rather than the faint scent of the actual plant. The powdery elegance of orris, derived from the aged rhizomes of the iris plant grown mainly in Tuscany, introduces a cool, velvety softness reminiscent of violet powder and suede. Orris is one of perfumery’s most precious materials because its roots must be aged for years before distillation develops their fragrance.
Enriching the bouquet is ylang-ylang, a tropical flower from the Comoros and Madagascar whose oil smells creamy, sweet, and slightly banana-like, adding lush sensuality. Finally, lily of the valley brings a sparkling freshness, though this flower cannot produce a natural essential oil. Its scent is created through molecules such as hydroxycitronellal that replicate the bell-like clarity of the blossoms, giving the perfume a radiant, almost glowing floral transparency.
As the fragrance settles into its final stage, it reveals the warm, luxurious base that defines the classic chypre structure. Benzoin, a resin harvested from trees in Southeast Asia—especially Siam (Thailand) and Sumatra—unfolds with a sweet, balsamic aroma reminiscent of vanilla, caramel, and soft incense. It lends the fragrance a comforting warmth, as if a golden glow were radiating from the skin. Virginia cedar, distilled from cedarwood grown in the southeastern United States, contributes a dry, pencil-shaving woodiness that feels clean and structured, balancing the sweetness above it.
Sandalwood, traditionally sourced from Mysore in India, has long been prized for its creamy, milky softness and meditative warmth. True Mysore sandalwood is especially valued because its oil is exceptionally smooth and long-lasting, though modern perfumery often blends natural material with synthetic sandalwood molecules to preserve sustainability while maintaining the signature creamy aura.
Within this base also lies the sensual softness of musk, which historically came from the musk deer but is now entirely produced through safe synthetic molecules. These modern musks smell like clean skin warmed by sunlight—soft, velvety, and slightly powdery. Ambergris, once a rare substance produced by sperm whales and aged by the sea, lends an extraordinary marine warmth—salty, sweet, and subtly animalic. Because natural ambergris is extremely rare and protected today, perfumers recreate its effect using molecules such as ambroxide that capture its glowing, skin-like warmth.
The earthy backbone of the chypre structure appears through oakmoss, historically harvested from lichen growing on oak trees in European forests. Oakmoss smells damp, woody, and slightly salty, evoking forest floors after rain; modern formulas often combine natural extracts with synthetic substitutes to comply with safety regulations while preserving its mossy depth. Finally, a gentle haze of spices lingers through the base, echoing the clove and floral warmth from the heart, leaving the perfume wrapped in a sophisticated aura of velvet woods, soft powder, and glowing warmth.
Together these ingredients create the sensation of a fragrance that evolves from fresh green brightness to opulent floral richness and finally to a warm, aristocratic softness. The natural materials—flowers, resins, woods—provide complexity and texture, while carefully chosen aroma chemicals fill the gaps where nature alone cannot capture certain scents. In combination they create the illusion of a living landscape: a garden at twilight where citrus trees, flowering vines, and mossy stone terraces breathe their perfume into the warm night air.
Fragrance Line:
The pure parfum concentration represented the most opulent expression of the fragrance. Available in sizes from the generous 1 oz bottle down to the tiny 1/10 oz mini, this version would have contained the highest percentage of aromatic oils—typically around 20–30%. On the skin it would feel deep, plush, and velvety. The opening green notes of galbanum and bergamot would appear softer and more rounded than in lighter concentrations, quickly melting into the rich floral heart of jasmine, rose, and narcissus. Because of the high oil content, the perfume would cling to the skin for hours, gradually revealing the powdery warmth of orris, sandalwood, oakmoss, and benzoin. Rather than projecting dramatically, it would hover close to the wearer, creating an intimate aura that others notice only when near—like the faint fragrance of flowers lingering in silk evening gloves. The refillable spray purser versions were designed for elegant portability, allowing a woman to discreetly refresh the perfume during an evening event while maintaining the richness of the pure parfum formula.
In 1984, the fragrance was also introduced as an Eau de Parfum Natural Spray, a slightly lighter interpretation that balanced longevity with greater diffusion. Eau de Parfum generally contains around 15–20% aromatic oils, meaning the scent would bloom more readily in the air while still maintaining much of the perfume’s depth. In this concentration, the sparkling citrus and green opening would feel brighter and more pronounced, giving the fragrance a livelier first impression before settling into the floral bouquet. The chypre base—oakmoss, sandalwood, ambergris, and musk—would still linger gracefully, but the overall character would feel more fluid and wearable for daytime or early evening, rather than the intimate richness of the parfum.
The Cologne Vivant versions offered the most airy and refreshing interpretation of the fragrance while still maintaining its distinctive character. Traditionally containing around 3–6% fragrance oils, cologne has a lighter, more effervescent quality. In this form, the fragrance would open with a vivid burst of citrus, mint, and green notes, giving a crisp, invigorating sensation—almost like stepping into a garden just after rain. The floral heart would appear more delicate and transparent, with lily of the valley and cyclamen adding watery brightness to the richer jasmine and rose. Although lighter than the parfum, the cologne was described as having the “long-lasting character of the perfume,” suggesting that the elegant mossy base still revealed itself softly as the scent warmed on the skin. The Automatique spray purse sizes, introduced in the early 1980s, reflected the era’s emphasis on convenience and mobility, allowing women to carry a refreshing touch of the fragrance throughout the day.
One of the most distinctive forms was the Parfum Solide, introduced in 1980. Solid perfumes are typically composed of fragrant oils blended into a wax or balm base, often beeswax or similar materials. In this format, the fragrance would feel warm and intimate, melting slightly at the touch of the skin and releasing its scent slowly. The green and citrus top notes would appear softer and more muted, while the powdery and woody base notes—orris, sandalwood, benzoin, and musk—would dominate. Applied to pulse points, it would create a subtle halo of fragrance that remained close to the body, almost like the scent of perfumed powder lingering on silk scarves or velvet evening gowns. The solid perfume itself was presented as a swirling core of fragrance encased in sculpted silver, echoing the elegant design motif of the bottle and reinforcing the sense that the fragrance was a small jewel of personal luxury.
Together, these various forms of Di Borghese “Parfum Vivant” allowed the wearer to experience the fragrance in different moods and intensities—from the sumptuous intimacy of pure parfum to the airy freshness of cologne. Each concentration revealed different facets of the scent’s green floral chypre structure, much like seeing the same Italian garden at different times of day: dawn-lit citrus freshness, midday floral bloom, and the warm, mossy elegance of evening lingering long after sunset.
Ancillary Products:
In 1979, the world of Di Borghese – Parfum Vivant expanded beyond the perfume bottle into a complete bath and body ritual, allowing the fragrance to accompany a woman from the quiet intimacy of her dressing table to the final touch before an evening out. These ancillary products were designed not merely as scented toiletries but as layers of fragrance, each subtly infused with the green floral chypre character of the perfume. Like the fragrance bottles themselves, they were housed in swirled, non-breakable containers, echoing the sculptural elegance of the original globe-shaped flacon while making them practical for daily use in the bath or on a vanity tray. The effect was luxurious yet approachable—objects that felt as though they belonged in a Renaissance boudoir but were perfectly suited to modern life.
The Parfum Vivant Body Silk, a perfumed body lotion, would have delivered the fragrance in a soft, intimate form. Because lotions contain a relatively low percentage of fragrance oils dispersed in an emollient base, the scent would appear sheer and velvety, unfolding slowly as the warmth of the skin releases it. The bright citrus and green notes would be delicate and airy, more like the faint aroma of crushed leaves lingering on freshly washed skin. As the lotion absorbed, the florals—jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley—would emerge as a gentle bouquet, while the mossy chypre base of sandalwood, oakmoss, and musk would provide a subtle warmth that blends seamlessly with the wearer’s natural scent. Rather than projecting outward like the perfume, the Body Silk would create the impression of naturally fragrant skin, smooth, elegant, and softly radiant.
The Parfum Vivant Milk Bath transformed the fragrance into a sensorial bathing experience. Foaming milk baths typically contain soothing ingredients that soften the water and create a creamy lather, allowing the fragrance to bloom in the steam. In warm bathwater, the perfume’s top notes would come alive first: the sparkling brightness of bergamot and citrus mingling with the cool greenness of galbanum and mint. As the bath fills the room with scented vapor, the floral heart would begin to emerge, surrounding the bather in a cloud of jasmine, rose, and soft powdery orris. Because bath products rinse away, the scent left on the skin afterward would be very delicate and clean, leaving behind only the faintest whisper of the warm woody base—an elegant prelude for applying the perfume itself later.
The Poudre Vivant, a perfumed dusting powder, offered yet another dimension of the fragrance. Dusting powders traditionally contain fine talc or similar materials that hold fragrance beautifully, releasing it gradually with body heat and movement. In this format, the scent would emphasize the powdery and floral aspects of the composition. When applied with a puff across the shoulders or neckline, the perfume would feel airy and refined, with hints of rose, lily of the valley, and orris rising first—soft and luminous, like the fragrance of fresh petals pressed between silk. The powder would also accentuate the mossy chypre base, allowing the oakmoss, musk, and sandalwood to emerge gently as the day progresses. Each movement of the body would release a faint cloud of fragrance, creating a graceful aura reminiscent of perfumed face powders used in classic European boudoirs.
Finally, the Savon Vivant, the line’s perfumed soap cakes, provided the most refreshing interpretation of the fragrance. Soap bases tend to emphasize bright and clean notes, so the citrus and green facets of the perfume would feel particularly crisp and invigorating during use. As the soap lathers, the scent would evoke the freshness of a garden washed by morning dew—sparkling citrus, leafy greens, and a hint of cool floral sweetness. After rinsing, the fragrance remaining on the skin would be extremely subtle, leaving only a whisper of the perfume’s floral and mossy warmth. Used together with the milk bath, powder, or body lotion, the soap helped establish a layered fragrance ritual, ensuring that every step of the bathing and dressing process carried a gentle trace of the elegant Di Borghese signature.
Together, these bath and body products allowed women to experience Parfum Vivant not just as a perfume but as an enveloping atmosphere. The lighter concentrations in lotions, powders, and soaps softened the fragrance’s more dramatic elements, highlighting its freshness and floral elegance while preparing the skin to receive the richer perfume itself. The result was a beautifully orchestrated progression—from cleansing freshness to powdery softness to the lingering depth of the perfume—creating the sensation of living within the fragrance throughout the day.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Although Di Borghese – Parfum Vivant enjoyed many years of presence in the fragrance market, the line was eventually discontinued sometime in the mid-1990s, most likely between 1996 and 1997, as shifting perfume trends and evolving brand directions led many classic compositions of the late twentieth century to quietly disappear from production. By that time, the fragrance landscape had begun moving away from the rich green chypres and opulent florals that defined the 1970s and early 1980s, favoring instead lighter, fresher, and more minimalist scents. As a result, Di Borghese gradually faded from store counters.
Today, surviving bottles of the perfume and its accompanying bath and body products—especially the distinctive swirled globe-shaped flacons and elegant vanity items—have become prized finds among collectors and vintage fragrance enthusiasts. Their rarity, combined with the fragrance’s luxurious composition and aristocratic branding, has transformed them into small pieces of perfume history, treasured not only for their scent but also for the romantic glamour they evoke from an earlier era of perfumery.
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