Scaasi for Women by Scaasi (1989)

The Scaasi signature fragrance was introduced on November 5, 1989, created in partnership with Prestige Fragrances, a division of Revlon dedicated to designer and luxury scents. The launch represented a natural extension of the glamorous fashion world that designer Arnold Scaasi had cultivated for decades. Known for dramatic eveningwear, bold silhouettes, and couture craftsmanship, Scaasi had long dressed women who occupied the public spotlight. His work graced red carpets, gala evenings, and state occasions, earning him a reputation as a designer who celebrated femininity with theatrical elegance. One of the most visible endorsements of his work came when First Lady Barbara Bush chose Scaasi to design much of her wardrobe for the inauguration of President George H. W. Bush in 1989. That moment brought renewed public attention to the designer’s name, linking Scaasi with American political pageantry and sophisticated, high-profile style.

The name “Scaasi” itself carries an interesting story. Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal, Canada. Early in his career, he reversed the spelling of his surname to create the distinctive name Scaasi, transforming Isaacs into something that sounded exotic and European. Pronounced simply as “skah-SEE,” the name has a sleek, musical rhythm that feels both refined and dramatic. While the word itself has no literal meaning in any particular language, its sound evokes images of couture salons, velvet evening gowns, and the confident glamour of high society. The name feels elegant and theatrical—precisely the qualities that defined Scaasi’s fashion philosophy. To consumers, the word suggested luxury and individuality, something sophisticated yet memorable.

The late 1980s, when the fragrance debuted, was a dynamic period in fashion and culture. Often described as the era of power dressing and high glamour, the decade embraced bold silhouettes, strong shoulders, rich fabrics, and dramatic styling. Women were increasingly visible in corporate and public life, and fashion reflected a growing sense of confidence and authority. At the same time, there remained a strong appetite for romance and opulence. Eveningwear was lavish, jewelry was bold, and cosmetics emphasized statement-making beauty. Perfumery of the period mirrored these attitudes. Rather than delicate whispers, many fragrances of the late 1980s were rich, assertive, and complex, designed to project presence. Women often chose scents that felt powerful and unmistakable—fragrances that entered a room before they did.

Scaasi himself understood this desire for drama and romance. He once explained, “The clothes I do now are very romantic and glamorous, and that’s what women want to wear. I think we are seeing the same thing with scent. Women are moving toward more romantic fragrances.” Though he had first considered creating a fragrance several years earlier, the idea was set aside while his ready-to-wear line was still developing. When the president and CEO of Revlon’s Fashion and Designers Group approached him about the project the year before the launch, the concept was revived. After several months of negotiations, the partnership was formalized in February 1989, setting the stage for a fragrance that would reflect the designer’s aesthetic.

Scaasi approached the creation of the perfume with the same dramatic sensibility he applied to couture. “I’m not a minimalist designer,” he said. “I didn’t want a scent that smelled faded or washed out.” Instead, he envisioned a fragrance that would leave a memorable impression. When Revlon asked how he imagined it, his response was characteristically theatrical: “I want a woman to walk into the room and I want every man to fall in love with her immediately.” To achieve this effect, Scaasi personally evaluated at least twenty-five fragrance compositions before selecting the one worthy of carrying his name.

The resulting fragrance was classified as a crisp fruity-floral chypre, a structure that balanced freshness, florals, and depth. It opens with sparkling mandarin and apricot, introducing a luminous fruitiness that immediately draws attention. The heart blossoms into an exotic floral bouquet of tuberose, narcissus, and rose, creating a lush and romantic center. These flowers were among the most opulent notes used in perfumery, giving the fragrance a bold personality rather than a delicate whisper. Beneath the florals lies a powdery, ambery base enriched with warm woods, mosses, and hints of ambergris, lending depth and sensuality. The overall effect is both radiant and commanding—an aroma that feels luxurious without becoming overwhelming.

Within the context of late-1980s perfumery, Scaasi fit comfortably among the era’s more assertive fragrances, yet it maintained its own identity. Many scents of the time emphasized strong florals, mossy chypres, and noticeable projection. Scaasi followed this trend but distinguished itself through its balance of fruit brightness and floral richness, creating a scent that was dramatic yet polished. It was neither shy nor austere; instead, it captured the glamour of the period while remaining wearable and refined.

For women of the time, a perfume called Scaasi would have carried an immediate sense of elegance and confidence. The name suggested couture sophistication, and the fragrance delivered on that promise. Wearing it was less about subtlety and more about presence—about entering a room with the same dramatic flair as one of Scaasi’s evening gowns. In this way, the fragrance translated the designer’s fashion philosophy into scent: romantic, glamorous, and unmistakably bold.

Launch:

The launch of Scaasi fragrance in 1989 was orchestrated with the same sense of theatrical elegance that defined Arnold Scaasi’s couture designs. The fragrance debuted exclusively at all 46 Saks Fifth Avenue stores, one of the most prestigious luxury retailers in the United States at the time. This carefully chosen introduction placed the scent immediately within the world of high fashion and upscale beauty. By beginning the distribution through Saks, the fragrance was positioned not merely as another department-store perfume, but as an extension of the designer’s couture identity. After this initial debut, the fragrance gradually expanded to additional specialty retailers throughout 1990, allowing the brand to maintain an aura of exclusivity while building wider recognition.

Arnold Scaasi himself played an active role in promoting the fragrance, traveling to major cities across the United States to make personal appearances at leading department stores. These appearances were more than simple promotional events—they reinforced the connection between the fragrance and the glamorous world of fashion design. Customers had the rare opportunity to meet the designer whose name appeared on the bottle, strengthening the sense that the fragrance was part of a broader artistic vision rather than a purely commercial product.

To further elevate the launch, Scaasi created a striking visual campaign that blended fashion with fragrance. He designed six styles of evening gowns inspired by the color palette used in the perfume’s packaging—emerald green, fuchsia, and black. These dramatic gowns embodied the same opulent aesthetic that characterized his clothing collections. During launch week, the gowns were displayed in the window installations of Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship store and seven additional Saks locations, transforming the store windows into miniature couture exhibitions. The effect was theatrical and unmistakably glamorous, capturing the attention of passersby and reinforcing the idea that the fragrance was inseparable from Scaasi’s world of evening elegance.

The fragrance itself was positioned firmly within the luxury category. When it debuted, the parfum concentration retailed for $250 per ounce, an impressive price point at the time that reflected both the prestige of the designer name and the richness of the formulation. The fragrance line extended beyond the perfume itself into a range of coordinating body products designed to layer and prolong the scent experience. These included an eau de parfum natural spray, a richly indulgent body lotion, an opulent body cream, and a luxuriously extravagant body powder. Together, these products allowed wearers to envelop themselves fully in the Scaasi fragrance, transforming it from a single perfume into a complete sensory ritual that reflected the designer’s signature vision of romance and glamour.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Scaasi is classified as a crisp fruity-floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh top, followed by an exotic floral heart, layered over a powdery, ambery base. Scaasi is a total olfactory surprise. Definitely not a politely light floral, but an opulent mix of fruity mandarin and apricot nestled in a rose bouquet building to a soft, lasting finish of spicy, warm woods, mosses and amber.

• Top notes: Amalfi lemon, bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, green note complex, coriander, rose,  apricot
• Middle notes: rose, narcissus, carnation, ylang-ylang, violet, gardenia, living tuberose, jasmine
• Base notes: vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, ambergris, civet and musk

Scent Profile:

The opening of Scaasi unfolds with a luminous brightness that feels both sparkling and sophisticated, as though the fragrance itself has stepped into a room filled with sunlight. The first sensation is the vivid zest of Amalfi lemon, a citrus celebrated for centuries along Italy’s Amalfi Coast. These lemons are prized because their thick, oil-rich peels produce an especially vibrant essential oil, brighter and sweeter than many other lemon varieties. Their aroma is crisp and radiant, carrying a tangy freshness that immediately awakens the senses. 

Alongside it is the refined elegance of bergamot, traditionally cultivated in Calabria, Italy, whose delicate citrus oil has long been the cornerstone of classic perfumery. Bergamot introduces a slightly bitter, tea-like nuance that softens the sharpness of lemon while adding an unmistakably elegant sparkle. Mandarin and sweet orange follow with a rounder, fruitier sweetness, their oils distilled from sun-warmed peels that release a juicy, golden aroma reminiscent of freshly peeled fruit. Floating delicately among the citrus is orange blossom, whose fragrance is both airy and creamy, with a gentle honeyed softness that hints at the floral richness to come.

Threaded through this bright opening is a fascinating green note complex, a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to evoke the scent of crushed leaves, dewy stems, and fresh-cut grass. Many of these green sensations are created using aroma molecules such as cis-3-hexenol, sometimes called “leaf alcohol,” which perfectly recreates the smell released when a leaf is broken between the fingers. These modern aroma chemicals enhance the natural freshness of the citrus and florals, giving the fragrance its crisp, almost luminous clarity. 

Coriander seed introduces a subtle herbal spice, slightly peppery with hints of citrus and warm wood, while a delicate trace of rose weaves through the top notes like the faintest blush of petals. Unexpectedly, the fragrance introduces apricot, whose soft, velvety sweetness suggests sun-ripened fruit and golden jam. True apricot essence is difficult to extract directly, so perfumers often recreate its aroma using compounds such as gamma-undecalactone, a molecule famous for its creamy peach-apricot character. This synthetic element blends seamlessly with the natural citrus oils, creating the illusion of a lush orchard bathed in sunlight.

As the brightness settles, the fragrance reveals its opulent floral heart, a lush garden blooming in full evening light. Rose forms the central pillar of this bouquet, most likely drawing inspiration from classic perfumery roses such as the Rosa damascena of Bulgaria or Turkey, whose oil carries a rich aroma of fresh petals, honey, and soft spice. Surrounding it is narcissus, a rare and intoxicating floral extract often sourced from the fields of southern France. 

Narcissus absolute possesses a complex scent—green, hay-like, and slightly animalic—giving the fragrance an earthy depth that contrasts beautifully with the sweetness of rose. Carnation adds a distinctive clove-like spice, thanks to natural eugenol within its composition, bringing warmth and vibrancy to the floral heart. Ylang-ylang, harvested from the blossoms of the Cananga tree in the tropical islands of the Indian Ocean, contributes a creamy, banana-like sweetness with hints of jasmine and exotic spice. Its essential oil is distilled in stages, with the finest fractions prized for their smooth, sensual character.

The heart grows richer still with violet, whose powdery, delicate aroma evokes the scent of old-fashioned violet candies and soft cosmetic powders. Interestingly, the characteristic violet fragrance is largely recreated with ionone molecules, aroma chemicals that not only smell like violet petals but also create a fascinating effect in which the scent seems to fade and reappear as the nose becomes temporarily desensitized. Gardenia, one of perfumery’s most beloved white flowers, cannot easily be distilled into a natural essential oil, so its creamy, lush scent is recreated through a careful combination of jasmine-like molecules, lactones, and green notes that mimic the living flower. 

Among the most luxurious elements in the bouquet is tuberose, presented here as a “living tuberose” accord—a modern perfumery technique that recreates the scent of the flower exactly as it smells in the evening air. Tuberose itself is intensely narcotic, rich with creamy, buttery facets and subtle hints of coconut and spice. Finally, jasmine adds its unmistakable warmth, likely inspired by Jasminum grandiflorum from Grasse or India, whose intoxicating fragrance blends sweetness, fruitiness, and a whisper of animalic depth.

Beneath this floral opulence, the fragrance settles into a sensual, powdery base that gives Scaasi its lasting presence. Vanilla introduces a warm, comforting sweetness, derived from the cured pods of orchids grown primarily in Madagascar. True vanilla absolute smells rich and creamy, with facets of caramel and soft spice. Vetiver, a fragrant grass whose roots are distilled into a smoky, earthy oil, anchors the composition with a dry, elegant woodiness. Haitian vetiver is particularly prized for its clean, refined character compared to smokier varieties from other regions. 

Sandalwood, traditionally sourced from Mysore in India, lends a smooth, creamy wood note that feels almost silky, wrapping the fragrance in warmth. Oakmoss, once a defining ingredient of classic chypre fragrances, contributes a deep forest-like aroma—cool, mossy, and slightly salty—evoking damp woodland floors and shaded bark.

Adding to the richness are the traditional animalic notes that give classic perfumes their lingering sensuality. Ambergris, historically formed in the ocean and aged by the sea, contributes a soft, warm, slightly salty sweetness with a remarkable ability to make other notes radiate and last longer. Today, this effect is usually recreated with molecules such as ambroxan, which captures ambergris’ glowing warmth in a sustainable way. 

Civet, once derived from the civet cat but now recreated synthetically, adds a subtle animal warmth that enhances the florals’ natural sensuality without becoming overpowering. Finally, musk completes the composition, providing a soft, skin-like warmth that feels intimate and comforting. Modern musks—clean, velvety molecules developed to replace traditional animal musk—create the sensation of warmth and closeness, as though the fragrance is blending seamlessly with the wearer’s own skin.

Together, these elements create a fragrance that unfolds in layers of brightness, lush florals, and sensual warmth. Scaasi is not a timid floral perfume but a confident, glamorous composition—sparkling with citrus and fruit, blooming with exotic flowers, and settling into a rich, velvety embrace of woods, moss, and amber. It captures the dramatic elegance of late-1980s perfumery, where fragrance was meant to be noticed, remembered, and associated with the presence of a woman who entered a room with unmistakable confidence.

Bottle:

The bottle for Scaasi, introduced in 1989, was designed by the celebrated bottle designer Pierre Dinand, whose work shaped the visual identity of many iconic fragrances of the late twentieth century. The bottle was manufactured by the prestigious French glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, a historic company known for producing refined glass for luxury perfumes since the seventeenth century, while the plastic components were supplied by TPI, ensuring precise detailing and structural elegance. The design itself is striking and architectural. A distinctive V-shaped band of frosted glass cuts gracefully across the clear bottle, creating a soft, misted surface that contrasts beautifully with the polished glass beneath it. This frosted element gives the bottle a sculptural presence, as if a veil of light has settled across the glass. Crowning the design is a rich emerald-green collar, a deep jewel tone that immediately conveys luxury and drama. Across this collar, the name Scaasi appears in luminous gold lettering, adding a touch of classic opulence and reinforcing the couture heritage of the designer.

The packaging continues this sophisticated color story with deliberate theatricality. The outer box is rendered in emerald green and black, echoing the rich tones of the bottle itself and evoking the elegance of eveningwear—very much in keeping with Arnold Scaasi’s glamorous fashion aesthetic. When the box is opened, the interior reveals a vivid fuchsia lining, an unexpected burst of color that creates a dramatic contrast against the darker exterior. This combination of emerald, black, and fuchsia reflects the same palette used in the couture gowns Scaasi designed for the fragrance’s launch, tying the visual presentation of the perfume directly to his world of high fashion and reinforcing the sense that the fragrance was conceived as an extension of his glamorous design philosophy.

The Scaasi line included the following:

• 1 oz Parfum (originally retailed for $250)
• 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Natural Spray (originally retailed for $55)
• 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Natural Spray
• 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Splash

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.