Silences by Jacomo (1978)

When Silences was introduced by the French perfume house Parfums Jacomo in Europe in 1978 (and the United States the following year), it arrived during a fascinating transition in perfumery. The fragrance was composed by the Parisian perfumer Gérard Courtin, a creative figure who was unusual in that he drew inspiration not only from scent but also from music. Courtin was known for approaching fragrance like a musical composition—arranging notes, pauses, and harmonies in a way that created emotional resonance rather than simply pleasant aroma. In Silences, he sought what he described as “a sophisticated fragrance with a bite to it,” something elegant yet arresting.

The name “Silences” comes from the French language, where the plural word silences refers to multiple moments of quiet. In everyday French it simply means “silences,” but the word carries a poetic implication: pauses filled with meaning rather than emptiness. Pronounced roughly “see-LAHNS” (the final s barely sounded, and the an pronounced softly through the nose), the word feels gentle and mysterious when spoken aloud. It evokes the quiet space between spoken thoughts, the breath between musical notes, or the intimate pause shared between two people who understand one another without words.

Courtin explained that the name was inspired directly by the perfume’s unfolding character. At first, the fragrance reveals itself boldly—sharp, green, and slightly acidic, with a spicy brightness that commands attention. But soon afterward, the scent softens and deepens. Rich blackcurrant nuances rise slowly and almost imperceptibly, enveloping the wearer with a subtle, velvety charm. The effect is not loud or flamboyant; rather, it seems to approach quietly, almost secretly, until it becomes irresistible. Courtin described this sensation as “that intimate melody of silence, translated into another language—the language of perfume.” In this sense, the fragrance behaves much like a musical composition: the pauses, the lingering echoes, and the delicate transitions are as important as the notes themselves.

The poetic concept behind the name was echoed in the perfume’s press materials. They described Silences as a fragrance that mirrors the emotional pauses in music—the intervals where feeling is most deeply experienced. According to the promotional text, the scent was intended for those quiet moments of personal revelation, when emotion and thought exist beyond language. It suggested a perfume for discovery, for reflection, and for the mysterious depths of feminine character. The imagery was intentionally romantic: a fragrance “sheltered inside an engraved cabochon of translucent crystal,” waiting to bear witness to moments of ecstasy and insight. Such language positioned Silences not simply as a perfume, but as a companion to the private, poetic moments of a woman’s life.

The late 1970s—the era in which Silences was launched—was itself a time of cultural transition. Often described as the post-disco era and the closing chapter of the 1970s fashion revolution, it was a period when women were redefining identity and independence in both professional and social life. Fashion balanced two contrasting ideals: the relaxed naturalism that had grown from the 1970s counterculture, and the emerging glamour that would soon define the bold aesthetics of the 1980s. Flowing silhouettes, silk blouses, tailored trousers, and earthy color palettes dominated wardrobes, while designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Halston were shaping modern elegance with streamlined, confident styles.

Perfumery during this period also reflected shifting tastes. The decade had already produced dramatic and expressive fragrances such as Opium and Charlie, which embodied boldness and independence. Yet at the same time, there was a growing appreciation for fragrances that felt intellectual, green, and refined rather than overtly seductive. Silences belonged to this latter sensibility. Its composition—lush green notes, mossy undertones, and nuanced fruit—aligned with a sophisticated style of perfumery that valued complexity and introspection.

For women of the late 1970s, a perfume called “Silences” would have carried a powerful symbolic resonance. It suggested confidence without ostentation, elegance without excess. Rather than proclaiming itself loudly, the fragrance invited intimacy—rewarding those who came close enough to notice its subtleties. In an era when women were increasingly asserting their independence and individuality, such a fragrance offered a different kind of strength: the allure of mystery, intelligence, and quiet self-possession.

The name also resonated with a deeper emotional truth. Silence can convey what words cannot—longing, contemplation, tenderness, or discovery. By naming the perfume Silences, Jacomo suggested that scent itself could speak this unspoken language. The fragrance was meant to inhabit the spaces between moments: the pause before a realization, the hush of a shared glance, the stillness in which emotion becomes unmistakably clear.

In this way, Silences captured both the spirit of its era and something timeless. It was a perfume that celebrated restraint, nuance, and the beauty of what remains unsaid—an olfactory expression of the idea that sometimes the most profound experiences are felt not in words, but in quiet. 

Making the Scent:

The word “Silences” suggests something unusual when translated into scent. Rather than implying absence, the word evokes the spaces between sensations—the quiet moments where nuance becomes perceptible. In perfumery, this idea can be interpreted as a fragrance that does not overwhelm but instead unfolds gradually, revealing subtle transitions and layered emotions. A scent called Silences would therefore be expected to possess refinement and restraint: the aroma might open vividly, yet soon soften into quieter, more contemplative tones that seem to hover gently around the wearer. Instead of shouting its presence across a room, it would reward those who come close, allowing delicate details—powdery florals, green leaves, and soft woods—to appear like musical notes emerging from a pause.

In the case of Silences, this interpretation is reflected in its composition. The fragrance is built around a rich green floral structure, where crisp verdant notes lead into a heart of sophisticated blossoms and finally settle into a soft, powdery base. The effect is not simply floral sweetness; rather, it carries an elegant tension between brightness and quiet depth. The luminous tartness of cassis (blackcurrant) introduces a sparkling, almost acidic freshness that feels alive and energetic. This lively note is balanced by the haunting floral character of narcissus, a flower known in perfumery for its green, slightly animalic richness that gives depth and intrigue. At the core lies Florentine iris, one of the most refined materials in perfumery, lending a cool, powdery sophistication that feels almost like a whisper on the skin. Surrounding these elements are warmer notes—ylang-ylang adding a creamy floral glow and Indian sandalwood providing smooth, velvety woodiness. Together, these ingredients create a fragrance that seems to breathe in and out, alternating between brightness and softness, presence and quiet—much like the musical pauses that inspired its name.

Within the perfume market of the late 1970s, this style of fragrance was both aligned with trends and quietly distinctive. The decade saw the popularity of powerful, characterful perfumes, many of which were dramatic orientals or dense florals. However, another important movement in perfumery was the rise of green fragrances—scents inspired by crushed leaves, stems, herbs, and the fresh vitality of nature. These fragrances reflected the era’s fascination with natural elegance and modern femininity. Silences, with its vivid green opening and botanical heart, fit beautifully within this aesthetic. Yet it distinguished itself through its unusual combination of notes, particularly the interplay of cassis and narcissus with the cool powderiness of iris. At the time, blackcurrant notes were still relatively uncommon in fine fragrance, giving the perfume a distinctive tart brightness that made it memorable.

The story behind the perfume’s creation also adds depth to its character. The perfumer Gérard Courtin approached fragrance composition as both an art and a personal passion. Originally a pianist, Courtin’s life took an unexpected turn after he was wounded during the Algerian War and lost the full use of his right hand. Unable to pursue music as before, he redirected his creative energy into perfumery, a field that allowed him to continue expressing harmony, rhythm, and emotional nuance—only now through scent instead of sound. He began creating fragrances privately in 1971, initially as a form of personal enjoyment. His early compositions included Eau Cendrée, a masculine eau de toilette blending sandalwood, herbs, and green pepper, followed by Chicane, a floral fragrance built around rose, jasmine, and tea. Silences would become his third Jacomo fragrance and the one that most fully expressed his artistic philosophy.

Aliette Dombrevane, a former fashion model who joined the company and eventually became deeply involved in its development, described Courtin’s process as one that always began with an idea reflecting the personality of the brand. Dombrevane herself had abandoned the fashion world because she found it “a little too superficial,” seeking instead something more substantive and creative. When she joined Jacomo, she immersed herself in every aspect of the perfume industry—from packaging and manufacturing to working alongside chemists in the laboratory. Observing the creation of Silences gave her insight into the painstaking nature of perfume composition. In a laboratory near Orly airfield, she watched technicians blend aromatic concentrates derived from plants, herbs, and flowers sourced from Grasse, the legendary center of French perfumery on the Riviera.

Creating the fragrance required an extended period of experimentation and refinement. Courtin spent three and a half years adjusting the formula, gradually balancing the interplay between green freshness, floral elegance, and powdery warmth. Dombrevane compared the process to cooking at the highest level of gastronomy: the perfumer conceived the idea, the chemist prepared the raw materials, and a technician—“like a great chef”—combined ingredients in precise proportions to achieve the desired scent. Each adjustment altered the fragrance’s harmony until the composition achieved exactly the mood Courtin envisioned.

The final result, according to Dombrevane, was “a perfume of exuberance with a green fresh note” elevated by the sophisticated presence of narcissus and enlivened by the bright fruitiness of blackcurrant. The powerful yet refined character of iris anchored the composition, giving it the elegant structure that defined the fragrance. In essence, Silences captured a paradox: a perfume both vibrant and restrained, expressive yet subtle—much like the concept suggested by its name.

At the time of its introduction, Silences represented the culmination of Courtin’s work for Jacomo, and it would be his last fragrance for the brand for some time. The company’s focus shifted toward introducing its three perfumes—Eau Cendrée, Chicane, and Silences—to the American market. For Jacomo, the fragrance served as both a creative statement and a signature expression of the house’s identity: elegant, artistic, and quietly distinctive.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Silences is classified as a rich green floral fragrance for women. "A subtle, elegant blend of iris, narcissus and cassis warmed and spiced by ylang ylang, soft and woody with Indian sandalwood. It begins with a green top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a mild, powdery floral base. Silences is a floral blend of iris, cassis (that's right — black currants!), narcissus, ylang ylang, sandalwood."

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, orange blossom, galbanum, green note complex, cassis
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, hyacinth, narcissus, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, Florentine iris
• Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, Indian sandalwood, musk, cedar

Scent Profile:

Silences unfolds like the quiet awakening of a garden at dawn, where the air carries a vivid green freshness and every scent seems sharpened by the cool light of morning. The opening begins with a radiant citrus brightness: bergamot, prized from the sunlit groves of Calabria in southern Italy, releases a refined sparkle that is both fresh and slightly bitter, far more elegant than ordinary citrus oils. Calabrian bergamot has long been treasured in perfumery because its peel yields an oil of remarkable complexity—bright, floral, and gently aromatic. 

It mingles with the sharper zest of lemon, whose clean, sunlit acidity adds a quick flash of energy, like the crisp scent released when a lemon rind is twisted between the fingers. Softening these citruses is orange blossom, the honeyed white floral obtained from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree. Orange blossom oil, often sourced from Mediterranean orchards in Tunisia or Morocco, carries a luminous sweetness with hints of green leaves and warm pollen, bridging the bright citrus opening with the floral heart that follows.

Almost immediately, the fragrance’s defining green character begins to emerge. The sharp, resinous scent of galbanum—a gum resin harvested from wild plants growing in the mountains of Iran and Afghanistan—cuts through the citrus with startling clarity. Galbanum smells intensely verdant, like snapped stems, crushed leaves, and damp forest sap, giving the fragrance its striking “green” personality. Supporting this are green note complexes, blends of aroma chemicals designed to recreate the smell of living foliage. Natural leaves rarely yield usable aromatic oils, so perfumers rely on materials such as cis-3-hexenol and cis-3-hexenyl acetate, molecules that reproduce the scent of freshly cut grass and crushed stems with uncanny realism. These compounds add the sensation of dew on greenery—cool, crisp, and alive. 

Within this verdant landscape appears the bright tang of cassis, or blackcurrant. Natural blackcurrant bud absolute exists but is extremely powerful and somewhat animalic, so perfumers often balance it with synthetic molecules like allyl amyl glycolate and fruity sulfur compounds that enhance its tart, sparkling fruitiness. The result is a vivid aroma reminiscent of crushed blackcurrant leaves and berries—sharp, juicy, and slightly green—an unusual note in perfumery at the time and one that gives Silences its distinctive, lively opening.

As the initial brightness settles, the fragrance blossoms into a complex green floral heart, like walking deeper into a lush garden where flowers open among cool leaves. Lily of the valley appears first, delicate and airy, evoking tiny white bells shimmering with morning dew. The flower itself cannot be distilled—its scent must be recreated entirely through chemistry using molecules such as hydroxycitronellal and Lilial-type accords, which capture its soft, watery freshness. Beside it blooms hyacinth, whose fragrance is green, spicy, and slightly earthy. Natural hyacinth absolute exists but is extremely rare and costly; perfumers typically recreate its scent with materials like phenylacetaldehyde and hyacinth accords that suggest damp petals and cool spring air.

More opulent flowers soon enrich the composition. Narcissus, gathered from fields in southern France or the Alps, lends an intoxicatingly green floral tone with subtle hay-like warmth and a faint animalic depth that gives the fragrance character and mystery. Bulgarian rose, cultivated in the famed Rose Valley of Kazanlak, adds velvety richness. This particular rose oil is renowned for its depth and honeyed spice, produced through centuries-old distillation traditions that yield an essence far richer than roses grown elsewhere. Interwoven with it is jasmine, whose absolute from Grasse or India carries a sensual, luminous sweetness touched with fruit and warm indole—an aroma that gives flowers their living, breathing realism. These classic florals soften the green sharpness of the opening, allowing the fragrance to bloom gracefully on the skin.

Adding warmth and complexity is ylang-ylang, distilled from the golden flowers of trees grown in the Comoros Islands and Madagascar in the Indian Ocean. Ylang-ylang oil is prized for its creamy, almost banana-like sweetness and exotic floral richness. It acts as a bridge within the fragrance, smoothing the transition from bright florals to deeper, more powdery notes. 

At the heart of Silences also lies Florentine iris, one of perfumery’s most luxurious materials. True iris scent comes not from the flower but from the aged rhizomes of the orris plant, traditionally cultivated in Tuscany near Florence. These roots must be dried and aged for several years before they develop their characteristic fragrance—an exquisite powdery aroma reminiscent of violet petals, cool earth, and antique cosmetics. Because natural orris butter is extremely expensive, perfumers often enhance it with synthetic ionones, molecules that amplify the powdery violet-like character of iris while adding a soft, diffusive elegance. In Silences, the iris acts like a silken veil, smoothing the florals into a refined, almost whispering softness.

As the fragrance settles, the composition descends into a gentle, mossy base that gives depth and longevity. Oakmoss, traditionally harvested from lichen growing on oak trees in forests of France and the Balkans, provides a dark green, slightly salty aroma reminiscent of damp woodland earth. It is the classic foundation of many sophisticated green perfumes, lending structure and quiet depth. Vetiver, often sourced from Haiti, adds a dry, smoky earthiness with hints of roots and sun-warmed soil, grounding the fragrance with subtle elegance. Indian sandalwood, historically obtained from the forests of Mysore in southern India, contributes creamy, velvety warmth with a smooth, milky woodiness unlike any other tree oil. This sandalwood has long been considered the finest in the world because of its rich concentration of santalol molecules that produce its soft, lingering scent.

Supporting these natural materials are the gentle warmth of cedarwood, which introduces a dry, pencil-shaving clarity, and musk, a note that today is recreated through modern synthetic molecules such as galaxolide or muscone-type compounds. Natural animal musk is no longer used in perfumery, so these laboratory-created musks provide a clean, skin-like softness that enhances the fragrance’s longevity and creates the sensation that the scent is merging with the wearer’s own warmth.

Together, these elements create a fragrance that moves like a quiet piece of music—bright green notes opening like the first breath of morning, flowers unfolding gradually with elegance and restraint, and a soft, powdery base settling like a lingering whisper on the skin. Each ingredient contributes its own voice, yet none overwhelms the others. Instead, they form a harmonious composition in which freshness, florals, and gentle woods exist in delicate balance—capturing perfectly the poetic idea suggested by the perfume’s name: a beauty revealed in subtle, resonant silences.

Bottles:

The presentation of Silences was conceived as carefully as the fragrance itself, reflecting the personal aesthetic of its creator, Gérard Courtin. Just as the perfume expresses his quiet, refined approach to scent, the bottle and box embody his fascination with modern art and minimalist design. Courtin believed that a perfume should exist not only as a fragrance but as a complete artistic object—something that communicates its character before a single drop is applied. The packaging of Silences therefore functions almost like a sculpture, combining unusual forms, tactile materials, and restrained elegance.

The outer box immediately signals that this perfume is something special. Crafted from handmade Galuchat-textured paper in shades of gray and gold, the surface resembles the subtle pebbling of shagreen—a material long associated with luxury objects. Galuchat textures were historically used in fine furniture and decorative arts, prized for their soft yet distinctive grain. When held in the hand, the box has a slightly tactile, almost organic quality, inviting touch. Rather than opening in a conventional manner, the box splits diagonally, an unexpected gesture that reveals the bottle inside with a sense of theatrical precision. The diagonal opening echoes the modernist spirit Courtin admired, where design favors bold geometry and subtle drama rather than ornate decoration.

Nestled upright within the box is the perfume’s striking bottle, a sculptural disk of black glass. Its shape is unconventional—neither tall nor ornate, but low, round, and substantial, almost like a polished stone or a piece of contemporary sculpture. The bottle’s deep black glass immediately communicates the aesthetic that Courtin favored most: restrained, elegant, and slightly mysterious. The darkness of the glass gives the perfume an air of secrecy, as if the fragrance within is something precious and hidden.

Crowning the bottle is one of its most distinctive features. Resting atop the disk is a half-moon shaped cap, beneath which sits a crystal cabochon stopper engraved with the letter “J.” This smooth, domed crystal jewel catches the light with subtle brilliance against the matte depth of the black glass. The engraved initial—drawn from the name Jacomo—adds a personal, almost signature-like element to the design. The contrast between black glass and clear crystal creates a striking visual tension: darkness paired with clarity, weight balanced with light.

Courtin was deeply involved in the design of this flacon. The flowing lettering that appears on the bottle is said to be his own handwriting, lending the perfume an intimate, almost personal touch. To him, the name Silences was not merely a title but a concept that carried sound and meaning. He once described the name as something he could almost feel—a vibration or aura that surrounds a person. The delicate script across the bottle reinforces that idea, as if the fragrance itself were a signature energy emanating from the wearer.

The decision to use black glass was not purely aesthetic. Courtin appreciated its elegance, but he also understood the technical reasons behind it. Perfume is a fragile composition of aromatic molecules that can easily degrade when exposed to light or heat. Ultraviolet light in particular can break down delicate natural oils and aromatic compounds, altering the fragrance’s character over time. By housing Silences in opaque black glass, the perfume is shielded from these damaging elements. In this sense, the bottle functions both as an artistic object and as a protective vessel, preserving the integrity of the fragrance within.

Courtin’s personal environment reflected the same design philosophy seen in the perfume’s packaging. His Paris office was decorated almost entirely in shades of black and gray, with black leather chairs, a square coffee table carved from black marble, and sleek chrome lamps imported from Italy. His desk was a hand-finished black lacquer table—simple, reflective, and modern. The monochromatic palette created a calm, contemplative atmosphere, one that mirrored the restrained sophistication of his perfumes. Black, in particular, was a color he favored deeply, perhaps because it suggested both elegance and mystery—the same qualities he sought in his fragrances.

When Silences debuted in the United States in 1979, it was positioned as a luxury fragrance. The pure parfum sold for $75 per ounce, a considerable price at the time, reflecting both the quality of the materials and the elaborate presentation. Within just two years, by 1981, the same quantity had risen to $125, illustrating how quickly the perfume had established itself as a prestige item. Several versions were offered to suit different preferences. The Parfum Modèle Edition was available in smaller sizes—¼ ounce for $30, ½ ounce for $50, and 1 ounce for $80—while a jewel-case presentation of the ½-ounce parfum sold for $60. For those who preferred a lighter application, Parfum de Toilette versions were offered in larger bottles: 1⅔ ounces for $16.60, 3⅓ ounces for $25, and a natural spray for $18.

As the fragrance gained popularity, the Silences line gradually expanded. By 1984, the perfume had grown into a small collection of complementary bath and body products designed to extend the scent beyond the fragrance bottle. These included a 5.3-ounce bath powder, a 6.8-ounce body lotion, and perfumed soaps, allowing the wearer to layer the scent in a soft, lingering way. Such expansions were common for successful fragrances of the era, transforming a single perfume into a complete ritual of scent and personal care.

Through its packaging, pricing, and thoughtful design, Silences conveyed a clear message: this was not simply a fragrance but an artistic expression. The tactile box, the sculptural black flacon, the crystal cabochon stopper, and the handwritten lettering all combined to create an object of quiet sophistication. Much like the perfume itself, the presentation did not rely on flamboyance. Instead, it communicated elegance through restraint—an aesthetic that perfectly captured the essence of Silences.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original 1978 formulation of Silences remained on the market for more than a decade, quietly earning a devoted following among women who appreciated its elegant green floral character. Like many perfumes of its era, however, the fragrance eventually began to disappear from store shelves in the early 1990s. While the exact date of its withdrawal is difficult to pinpoint, it is widely believed that the original formula was discontinued during this period. Several factors likely contributed to its disappearance. The perfume industry at the time was undergoing dramatic changes: consumer tastes were shifting toward brighter, fruitier compositions and eventually toward the airy aquatic fragrances that would dominate the decade. At the same time, regulatory changes affecting certain traditional ingredients—particularly materials such as oakmoss used in classic green fragrances—made it increasingly difficult to reproduce many vintage formulas exactly as they had been created in the 1970s.

2004 Reformulation:

More than a decade later, Silences was revived. In 2004, the fragrance was reformulated and relaunched in an effort to reintroduce the perfume to a new generation while remaining faithful to the spirit of the original composition. Reformulations are often necessary in perfumery when ingredients become restricted, scarce, or prohibitively expensive. In recreating Silences, perfumers sought to preserve the perfume’s distinctive green floral personality while adapting the formula to modern standards and materials. One notable addition to the newer version was the aroma chemical Vertofix, a sophisticated woody–green compound frequently used in modern perfumery.

Vertofix is a synthetic material that has a dry, earthy, slightly smoky character reminiscent of vetiver and patchouli, with a subtle green nuance that blends beautifully with mossy or leafy accords. It has a velvety depth that anchors fragrances and gives them lasting power without heaviness. Because of these qualities, Vertofix is often used to reinforce the woody base of perfumes that rely on green or chypre structures. The material is also famously associated with the elegant green fragrance Chanel No. 19, where it contributes to the composition’s dry, sophisticated backbone. In the reformulated Silences, Vertofix likely helped recreate some of the darker, mossy depth that earlier formulas achieved with natural materials such as oakmoss.

Although the 2004 revival allowed Silences to return to the perfume world for a time, this version appears to have had a relatively limited lifespan as well. The fragrance gradually became difficult to find again, suggesting that the reformulated edition was eventually discontinued. As with many revived classics, the challenge lies in balancing nostalgia with modern tastes and ingredient regulations. While the later version preserved elements of the perfume’s green floral identity, enthusiasts of the original often note subtle differences in depth, texture, and intensity compared with the 1978 composition.

Today, the original vintage Silences from the late 1970s and 1980s remains particularly cherished by collectors and perfume historians. It represents a style of perfumery that emphasized lush green florals, mossy depth, and powdery elegance, capturing a moment in fragrance history when perfumes were composed with remarkable richness and complexity. The later reformulation, though different, stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of Courtin’s concept—an attempt to preserve the quiet sophistication and poetic spirit that made Silences such a distinctive fragrance in the first place.

2012 Reformulation:

By 2012, the classic fragrance Silences underwent another transformation when it was reformulated by perfumer Serge Majoullier, working for the fragrance house Mane. This updated version was released under a slightly different name—Jacomo Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime—signaling that the perfume was both a continuation of the original concept and a modern reinterpretation. Rather than attempting to reproduce the 1978 formula exactly, Majoullier reshaped the fragrance to suit contemporary tastes and modern ingredient standards while preserving the spirit of its green, elegant character.

One of the primary reasons for the reformulation was the evolving guidelines set by International Fragrance Association (often abbreviated as IFRA). IFRA establishes safety standards for ingredients used in perfumery and cosmetics. These guidelines are based on ongoing scientific research evaluating whether certain materials might cause allergic reactions, skin sensitization, or environmental concerns. Over the years, IFRA restrictions have affected several traditional perfume ingredients—particularly materials such as oakmoss, certain musks, and other naturally occurring extracts that were once staples in classic fragrances. When these ingredients become restricted or limited, perfumers must adjust formulas using alternative materials or smaller concentrations while attempting to maintain the fragrance’s original character.

  

The top notes are green and powdery with the fresh crispness of a juicy pear, followed by a soft floral heart, layered over a woodsy, musk base.

• Top notes: galbanum, pear, blackcurrant bud and aldehydes
• Middle notes: Damask rose, iris from Morocco and narcissus
• Base notes: woods, musk

Scent Profile:

The modern interpretation Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime opens with a cool breath of green brightness that feels almost like stepping into a garden just after rainfall. The first impression comes from galbanum, a powerful green resin obtained from wild-growing plants in the rugged mountains of Iran and Afghanistan. Galbanum is one of perfumery’s most vivid natural materials, prized for its intensely sharp aroma—like snapping a green stem in half and inhaling the bitter sap released from its core. It carries the scent of crushed leaves, damp forest greenery, and raw vegetal energy. This bold green note establishes the character of the fragrance immediately, linking the modern version to the verdant personality of the original perfume.

Alongside this sharp greenery appears the succulent freshness of pear, a note that feels luminous and watery, like biting into ripe fruit whose juice runs down the fingers. Pear itself does not yield a meaningful essential oil, so perfumers recreate its aroma through carefully constructed accords using fruity aroma molecules. One of the most important is ethyl decadienoate, often referred to as “pear ester.” This molecule produces a vivid scent reminiscent of crisp orchard fruit—fresh, slightly honeyed, and sparkling with moisture. In the perfume, the pear note softens the austere edge of galbanum, adding brightness and a gentle sweetness that makes the opening feel modern and inviting.

The green freshness deepens with the distinctive scent of blackcurrant bud, known in French perfumery as bourgeons de cassis. The buds are harvested primarily in Burgundy, France, where blackcurrant cultivation has been perfected for centuries. The absolute extracted from these buds is intensely aromatic and surprisingly complex. It smells simultaneously fruity and leafy—like crushed berries mingled with green vines and damp foliage. Because natural cassis absolute can be extremely potent and slightly animalic, perfumers often enhance or balance it with synthetic molecules that highlight its bright, tangy fruitiness. In Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime, the blackcurrant note adds a tart sparkle that dances between fruit and leaf, intensifying the fragrance’s vibrant green personality.

Floating above these elements is a whisper of aldehydes, a family of aroma molecules that have shaped modern perfumery since the early twentieth century. Aldehydes can smell airy, waxy, sparkling, or even slightly metallic depending on their structure. In a fragrance such as this, they act like beams of light passing through the composition—lifting the other notes and giving them radiance. Some aldehydes evoke the scent of freshly laundered linen or shimmering champagne bubbles, creating a sense of effervescence that makes the opening feel luminous and expansive.

As the initial freshness settles, the fragrance blooms into a soft floral heart that feels both elegant and refined. At its center is Damask rose, one of the most treasured roses in perfumery. Traditionally cultivated in places such as Bulgaria’s Rose Valley and Turkey, Damask roses yield an essential oil renowned for its depth and richness. The scent is velvety and slightly honeyed, with hints of spice and warm petals. This rose provides the perfume with a romantic softness that gently diffuses the sharper green notes of the opening.

Complementing the rose is iris from Morocco, derived not from the flower but from the dried rhizomes of the iris plant, known in perfumery as orris root. Moroccan orris has a beautifully refined powdery character, reminiscent of violet petals, soft suede, and cool earth. These rhizomes must be aged for several years before their fragrance fully develops, making iris one of the most precious materials used in perfume. To enhance the natural iris note, perfumers often incorporate ionones, aroma molecules that amplify its violet-like powderiness and extend its diffusion. In this fragrance, iris lends a quiet elegance—like the gentle dusting of fine cosmetic powder on the skin.

Adding complexity to the heart is narcissus, a flower that grows wild in parts of southern France and the Mediterranean. Narcissus absolute possesses a fascinating scent profile: lush and floral yet tinged with green hay, honey, and a subtle animalic warmth. It gives depth to floral compositions, creating a sense of natural realism—as though the flowers are still alive in the meadow where they were picked. Within Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime, narcissus enriches the bouquet, providing a slightly mysterious undertone beneath the rose and iris.

As the perfume settles on the skin, it drifts gently into a woodsy, musky base that anchors the entire composition. The woody notes are often constructed from a blend of natural materials and modern aroma chemicals. These woods may evoke the dry elegance of cedar or the creamy softness of sandalwood, creating a warm, comforting foundation beneath the florals. Modern perfumery frequently employs sophisticated molecules such as Iso E Super, which smells smooth, velvety, and subtly woody—almost like warm skin infused with soft cedar. Such molecules help give the fragrance its quiet diffusion and longevity.

Completing the base is musk, now recreated entirely through synthetic compounds since natural animal musk is no longer used in perfumery. Modern musks—such as galaxolide or muscone-type molecules—carry a soft, clean scent reminiscent of warm skin and freshly laundered fabric. These materials are crucial to the fragrance’s aura, forming an almost invisible halo that allows the scent to linger gently rather than announce itself loudly.

Together, these ingredients create a perfume that feels both modern and poetic. Crisp green resins and sparkling fruit open the composition like the first breath of morning air. Gradually, soft florals bloom with powdery elegance, before settling into a calm, woody warmth that seems to merge with the skin itself. The result is a fragrance that echoes the meaning of its name: not a loud declaration, but a subtle presence—an aromatic whisper that lingers in the quiet spaces around the wearer.

The bottle retains the original round shape and black color, with the font characters on it changed and modernized. The fragrance is available as 50 and 100 ml EDP.