Parfums de-Folet

Parfums de Folet was a short-lived and exceedingly obscure French perfume house that appears to have operated only during the years immediately preceding and during the early years of the Second World War, roughly from 1937 until 1941. Very little surviving documentation has been found regarding the company, suggesting that it was likely a small independent enterprise rather than one of the larger established Parisian perfume firms. Its brief lifespan coincided with one of the most turbulent periods in modern European history. The outbreak of war in September 1939 brought severe disruptions to the French perfume industry, including shortages of alcohol, essential oils, packaging materials, and export opportunities. Many smaller houses struggled to survive under these conditions, and it is quite possible that Parfums de Folet was among the numerous firms whose operations were curtailed by wartime restrictions before ultimately disappearing altogether.

Unlike the major perfume houses that maintained extensive fragrance portfolios, Parfums de Folet seems to have marketed only two known perfumes: Encore "Deuxième" and Jungle Night. The limited number of releases suggests either a highly specialized boutique operation or a company that never had the opportunity to expand its range before external circumstances intervened. The scarcity of surviving advertisements, bottles, and references further supports the notion that production volumes were relatively modest.

The first fragrance, Encore "Deuxième" (translated as "Again, Second Edition" or "Once More, Second"), carries a curious and somewhat theatrical name. The title evokes themes of repetition, romance, or perhaps a sequel to an earlier success. Such naming conventions were fashionable during the late 1930s, when perfume marketing often borrowed inspiration from the worlds of music, theater, and cinema. Although the fragrance's composition remains unknown, the name suggests a sophisticated Parisian perfume aimed at fashionable women seeking elegance and modernity.

The second perfume, Jungle Night, reflected the era's fascination with exotic and faraway locales. During the interwar years, perfumers frequently employed themes of tropical forests, distant colonies, and mysterious nocturnal landscapes to capture the imagination of consumers. The name conjures images of warm night air, lush vegetation, exotic flowers, and hidden sensuality. While no surviving formula has been located, one can reasonably imagine a rich oriental or floral-oriental composition in keeping with the exotic perfume trends popular during the late 1930s.

By 1941, references to Parfums de Folet disappear, suggesting that the company ceased operations during the German occupation of France. Whether the firm formally declared bankruptcy, was absorbed into another business, or simply vanished due to wartime hardships remains unknown. Today, Parfums de Folet survives only through a handful of rare references to its two perfumes, making it one of the many forgotten perfume houses whose existence was cut short by the upheavals of World War II.

The perfumes of Parfums de Folet:

• 1937 Jungle Night
• 1940 Encore Deuxieme, presented in a hula girl figural made by Ingrid in Czechoslovakia

The perfumes of Parfums de Folet were few in number but remarkably imaginative in both presentation and marketing. Despite the company's brief existence, its fragrances reflected the glamour, exoticism, and artistic bottle design that characterized the late Art Deco era. Only two perfumes are currently known—Jungle Night and Encore "Deuxième"—yet both were housed in striking flacons that have become far more famous among collectors than the fragrances themselves.

Jungle Night:

Introduced in 1937, Jungle Night was marketed as an exotic and mysterious perfume inspired by the lush tropical landscapes of Southeast Asia. A 1939 article described it as a "subtle, provocative, alluring" fragrance that evoked "the flowers of the green Cambodian jungle." Such imagery was typical of the period, when perfumers frequently capitalized on themes of distant lands and unexplored wilderness to create an aura of romance and intrigue. The advertisement further emphasized the perfume's lasting fragrance, refined character, and appeal to discriminating customers, while also noting its limited availability. The article proudly stated that the bottle had won the Grand Prix at the Paris Exposition in 1937, an accolade that undoubtedly enhanced its prestige and desirability.

The bottle for Jungle Night was designed by the celebrated glass artist Julien Viard, whose creations adorned perfumes from many of France's most prestigious houses. Manufactured in France, the bottle stands four inches tall and is executed in a sophisticated combination of frosted and clear glass. The frosted surfaces are highlighted with black patinated accents that lend the flacon a dramatic and almost shadowy appearance, perfectly complementing the perfume's nocturnal jungle theme. The contrast between the translucent crystal and darkened details creates a sense of depth and mystery, making it one of the most elegant examples of Viard's later work.

 

 

Encore "Deuxième"

Parfums de Folet's second fragrance, Encore "Deuxième", was launched in 1936 and represented a very different artistic vision. Rather than relying upon exotic landscapes, this perfume drew upon whimsical Art Deco sculpture and playful feminine imagery. The perfume was housed in a remarkable figural bottle produced by the Ingrid company of Czechoslovakia, a firm known for its high-quality decorative crystal. The bottle is among the most unusual perfume presentations of the period and recalls the fanciful spirit of Schiaparelli's famous Zut! bottle. It demonstrates the growing influence of modernist sculpture on perfume packaging during the late 1930s.

The stopper forms an abstract and highly stylized female hula dancer rendered in frosted and clear crystal. Her elongated body reflects the streamlined aesthetic of the Art Deco movement, while her minimalist features lend the figure a distinctly modern appearance. The sculptural narrative is particularly charming: the dancer's skirt appears to have slipped down past her knees and fallen into soft folds around her feet, creating the lower portion of the bottle. Her head tilts forward slightly as if she has just noticed the mishap, while her arms cross modestly over her waist. A flower lei encircles her neck and a blossom adorns her hair, reinforcing the tropical motif. The figure's partially unclothed form adds a touch of playful sensuality without sacrificing elegance. Standing an impressive 6.5 inches tall, the bottle is both a perfume container and a decorative sculpture.

The stopper bears a decal reading "Encore 'Deuxième' de Folet Paris New York," suggesting that the perfume was marketed internationally. It is possible that the fragrance was sold under the name Deuxième in France and Encore in the United States, perhaps due to trademark or copyright considerations. Such dual branding was not uncommon among perfume houses seeking to expand into foreign markets while avoiding legal conflicts over names already in use.

Bell Jar Presentations

A fascinating glimpse into the company's ambitions appeared in a 1940 newspaper article describing two newly arrived perfumes from France. The article noted that they were presented in imaginative pure crystal flacons mounted on wooden pedestals decorated with iridescent Tasmanian shell flowers and protected beneath clear crystal glass domes. These elaborate bell-jar presentations transformed the perfumes into decorative objets d'art suitable for display on a dressing table. The glass dome presentation was highly fashionable during the period and was also employed by other luxury perfume creations such as those of Elizabeth Arden and Bab's Creation. Based on surviving advertisements, the two perfumes showcased beneath these domes were most likely Jungle Night and Encore "Deuxième", making them the company's principal offerings during its final years.

Taken together, Jungle Night and Encore "Deuxième" reveal a house that placed extraordinary emphasis on artistic presentation. Although Parfums de Folet disappeared during the upheaval of World War II, its perfumes survive as rare examples of late Art Deco creativity, combining exotic marketing themes, innovative glass design, and sculptural elegance into two of the more distinctive perfume presentations of the era.