Dating Van Cleef & Arpels fragrances—particularly older examples—can be complicated. Boxes and labels are sometimes difficult to interpret, while batch codes may contain three, four, five, or even more characters. Some bottles have no visible label or batch code, making the accompanying box especially important for identification. Packaging elements may also overlap during transitional periods as older supplies were used alongside newly introduced designs.
The following guide offers useful clues for establishing an approximate production date. For the most reliable estimate, compare every available feature, including the batch code, bottle design, box style, company address, distributor, barcode, ingredients list, and recycling or regulatory symbols. Because no single detail is conclusive, all available evidence should be considered together.
Quick Look – Van Cleef & Arpels Fragrance Dating Timeline:
Addresses:
- 1976–1991 Omnium de la Parfumerie de Luxe, 62 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris
- 1991–1994 Omnium de la Parfumerie de Luxe, 62 Avenue d’Iéna, Paris
- 1999–2007 Boulevard du Parc and/or Neuilly Cedex
- Since 2007 Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées, Paris
Distribution and Ownership:
- 1976–1999 Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums operated as a Sanofi division
- Until approximately 1995 Sanofi Beauty Products appears as the American distributor
- 1995–2000 ADIPAR appears as the American distributor
- 1999–2007 PPR-Gucci period
- Since 2007 Interparfums appears as the licensed fragrance producer and distributor
Logos and Website:
- 2000 onward Lozenge-shaped VCA emblem appears on boxes. The initials are arranged around the Vendôme Column, honoring the Maison’s historic boutique at 22 Place Vendôme.
- 2002 onward The former fragrance website “www.vca-parfums.com” may appear on packaging.
Symbols on Boxes:
- 1978 onward EMB numbers may appear. These identify the French manufacturing or packaging establishment, but do not provide an exact production date.
- 1990–1991 onward Barcodes begin appearing on boxes.
- 1992 onward Green Dot recycling symbol begins appearing on boxes.
- Mid-1990s onward The “Refer to Insert” symbol may appear. A hand pointing toward an open book indicates that required information or instructions are supplied on an enclosed leaflet, card, or booklet.
- Around 2005 onward The PAO, or Period After Opening, symbol may appear. It depicts an open cosmetic jar accompanied by a period such as “24M” or “36M,” indicating how long the product should remain suitable after opening.
Ingredients Lists:
- 1976–early 1990s Some early boxes and bottles have no ingredients declaration. Others may list only basic ingredients such as alcohol, water, and fragrance.
- 1990s–2004 A short ingredients list may appear on the box. Its length and wording can vary according to the product and intended market.
- 2005 onward An expanded ingredients list appears, naming any of the 26 declarable fragrance allergens present above the applicable thresholds. Examples may include limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniol, citral, and coumarin.
Collector’s Note: Some dates overlap because different distributors may have served different countries or product lines. Transitional presentations may also combine older boxes, newer bottles, revised addresses, different labels, and newly introduced regulatory symbols. Perfume companies routinely used remaining stocks of serviceable packaging rather than discarding them. Always compare the address, distributor, logo, symbols, ingredients list, batch code, bottle design, and fragrance launch date instead of relying upon a single feature.
Early Fragrances:
The earliest period of Van Cleef & Arpels perfumery began with First in 1976, followed by Pour Homme in 1978, Gem in 1987, and Tsar in 1989. Bottles dating from the original production years are among the rarest and most desirable examples for collectors. They may preserve earlier versions of the fragrances, created before the extensive reformulations and modern ingredient restrictions that affected many classic perfumes. However, not every bottle from this period necessarily contains the original launch formula, so its batch code and packaging should still be examined carefully.
The house expanded its fragrance collection during the following decade with Van Cleef in 1993, Miss Arpels in 1994, and Eau du Tsar in 1998. These were followed by Birmane in 1999 and Zanzibar in 2001. Although later than the first four classics, early bottles of these fragrances are also becoming increasingly difficult to find and may differ noticeably from subsequent reformulations or reissues.
Historical Production Periods
From 1976 through 1999, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrances were associated with the Sanofi organization. From 1999 through 2007, the fragrance business came under PPR-Gucci, during which Van Cleef & Arpels and Yves Saint Laurent perfumes shared the same corporate ownership. Beginning in 2008, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance production was placed under license to Interparfums. These corporate periods are important because changes in ownership or licensing were often accompanied by new distributor statements, addresses, batch-code systems, labels, and packaging.
Labels at a Glance
Identifying marks may appear on the box, bottle, or both. On some early bottles dating from approximately 1976 to 1990, however, there may be no label at all on the base of the bottle. In these cases, the original box becomes especially valuable, since its printed address, distributor, barcode, batch code, and other markings may provide clues unavailable on the flacon itself.
Packaging elements can overlap during transitional periods. A company might use its remaining supply of older boxes and labels with newly produced bottles, resulting in combinations of old and new features. Such mixtures should not automatically be regarded as replacements or mismatched presentations; every component must be considered together before assigning a date.
Certain general packaging symbols can provide broad chronological clues. Barcodes began appearing on Van Cleef & Arpels boxes around 1990–1991, while the Green Dot recycling symbol began appearing around 1992. Adoption may have varied by country and market, so these features should be treated as approximate earliest-date indicators rather than exact dating tools.
Van Cleef & Arpels packaging also carried company-specific information. Until approximately 1995, American-market boxes may bear the wording “Sanofi Beauty Products,” identifying the company responsible for distribution in the United States. This marking is therefore useful for recognizing an earlier American presentation, particularly when supported by the batch code, barcode, box style, and other period details.
During the early years of Van Cleef & Arpels perfumery and continuing until approximately 1991, boxes may bear the company name “Omnium de la Parfumerie de Luxe” and/or the address “62, Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris.” These markings are valuable indicators of an early presentation and may appear either together or separately, depending on the fragrance, concentration, and intended market. Because older packaging sometimes remained in use during transitional periods, they should be compared with the batch code, barcode, bottle design, distributor statement, and other box details before assigning a precise date.
From approximately 1991 through 1994, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance boxes continued to display the company name “Omnium de la Parfumerie de Luxe,” but the accompanying address changed to “62, Avenue d’Iéna, Paris.” This revised address is a useful clue for identifying presentations from the early 1990s and distinguishing them from earlier boxes marked “62, Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris.” Because old packaging could remain in use during transitional periods, the address should always be evaluated alongside the batch code, barcode, Green Dot symbol, bottle design, and distributor information.
1995-2000:
From approximately 1995 through 2000, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance packaging intended for the American market may bear the name “ADIPAR,” identifying the company responsible for distribution in the United States. This marking provides a useful clue for dating a bottle or box to the second half of the 1990s, while also distinguishing it from earlier American presentations marked “Sanofi Beauty Products.” Because distributor information may overlap during packaging transitions, the ADIPAR name should be considered together with the batch code, company address, barcode, Green Dot symbol, ingredients list, and overall packaging design.
1999-2007:
From approximately 1999 through 2007, Van Cleef & Arpels boxes or bottles may display an address incorporating “Boulevard du Parc” and/or “Neuilly Cedex.” These markings are associated with the PPR-Gucci period and therefore provide a useful clue for identifying packaging from the early 2000s. Cedex refers to France’s special postal system for businesses and organizations receiving large volumes of mail; it is not a separate town or manufacturer. Because corporate and packaging transitions could overlap, the address should be considered alongside the batch code, distributor, barcode, ingredients list, recycling symbols, and overall presentation.
label NEUILLY CEDEX (PPR-GUCCI Era, years 1999-2007) |
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| 2000-2007 "Boulevard du Parc" + "Neuilly" (PPR-Gucci) |
2000-Onward:
Since approximately 2000, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance boxes may display the Maison’s distinctive lozenge-shaped VCA emblem. The mark places the initials VC and A on either side of a representation of the Vendôme Column, recalling the house’s historic association with the Place Vendôme. It honors Van Cleef & Arpels’ first boutique, opened in 1906 at 22 Place Vendôme, Paris, and its appearance on fragrance packaging provides a useful supporting clue for identifying a presentation dating from 2000 or later.
2002-Onward:
Since approximately 2002, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance packaging may display the website “www.vca-parfums.com.” Although this was the Maison’s former fragrance website and is no longer its current online address, it continued to appear on some boxes after its introduction. Its presence therefore establishes an approximate earliest date of 2002, but does not provide a precise production year. Always compare the website address with the batch code, distributor, company address, ingredients list, barcode, recycling symbols, and overall packaging style.
2005-Onward:
Beginning around 2005, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance boxes began displaying an expanded ingredients list identifying any of the 26 declarable fragrance allergens present above the applicable thresholds. Although collectors sometimes refer to these substances as “restricted ingredients,” their appearance on packaging resulted primarily from European cosmetic-labeling regulations rather than an IFRA labeling requirement. Consequently, a lengthy ingredients list that includes names such as limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniol, citral, or coumarin generally indicates packaging dating from 2005 or later. As with other dating clues, the ingredients declaration should be considered alongside the batch code, distributor, address, barcode, recycling symbols, and box design.
Since approximately 2007, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance boxes and bottles may bear the name “Interparfums,” identifying the company that obtained the license to produce and distribute the Maison’s perfumes. Packaging from this period may also display an address at the Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées, Paris. These markings provide useful evidence of an Interparfums-era presentation, although the exact transition date may vary as older packaging was used up. They should therefore be compared with the batch code, ingredients list, barcode, recycling symbols, VCA emblem, and overall box design.
Batch Codes:
Until Approximately 1994:
Until around 1994, Van Cleef & Arpels generally used batch codes containing three or four characters. The first numeral indicates the final digit of the production year, while the remaining letters or numerals identify the individual manufacturing batch.
For example, the code 1BB corresponds to 1991 when found on packaging consistent with the early 1990s. Because the year numeral can repeat every decade, it must be interpreted alongside the company address, distributor, barcode, Green Dot symbol, bottle style, and other packaging details.
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| "Gem", launched in 1987, bottle with the barcode (since 1990) batch number 2GA = year 1992 |
From Approximately 1994:
Beginning around 1994, Van Cleef & Arpels generally used batch codes containing four or five characters. These codes begin with a numeral followed by a letter, with the initial numeral indicating the final digit of the production year; the remaining characters identify the individual manufacturing batch. For example, 7C01 corresponds to 1997 when found on packaging consistent with the 1990s. Because the year numeral repeats every ten years, verify the decade by examining the distributor, address, barcode, Green Dot symbol, ingredients list, VCA emblem, and overall packaging design.
"Eau de Tsar", launched in 1998 batch code 9B026 = year 1999 |
After 2010:
After approximately 2010, Van Cleef & Arpels began using longer batch codes composed mainly of numerals, with the year identified by an alphabetic character embedded within the sequence. If the code contains more than one letter, look for the final letter appearing among the numerals. In this system, A indicates 2010, B indicates 2011, C indicates 2012, and D indicates 2013. Because these codes may contain numerous characters and similar sequences can recur, confirm the year by comparing the code with the distributor, address, ingredients list, website, symbols, and packaging design.
- A = 2010
- B = 2011
- C = 2012
- D = 2013
| batch number 01B14B056 last letter is "B" = year 2011 |
Collector’s Note: The most reliable way to date a Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance is to compare several clues, including its batch code, the fragrance’s original launch date, and the labels and markings found on both the box and bottle. No single feature should be considered conclusive, particularly during transitional periods when older and newer packaging materials may overlap.
TUTORIAL PICS
| "Gem", box with VCA logo = after year 1999. |
| (from ebay) "TSAR", launched in 1989, label ADIPAR = years from 1995 until 2000 |
| (from ebay) "Pour Homme", label ADIPAR (1995-2000), engraved batch code 7xxx = year 1997 |
| "TSAR", launched in 1989, box with VCA logo = after year 1999. |
| (from ebay) "Eau de TSAR", launched in 1998, label ADIPAR (1995-2000) = Years 1999 or 2000. |
| (from ebay) "Pour Homme", VCA logo on the box = after year 1999. |
| (from ebay) "TSAR", label "InterParfums" = since 2007. |
| (from ebay) "First", long list of ingredients, batch with last letter "B" = year 2011 |
| (from ebay) "Eau de Tsar", launched in 1998, label "ADIPAR" (1995-2000), batch code 9B026 = year 1999 |
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| "TSAR", label ADIPAR (1995-2000) label 6I12C = year 1996 |
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| "TSAR", label "OMNIUM" with old address "62 rue St. Honorè", no barcode, batch number 0BA = year 1990 |
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| "Gem", box with barcode (since 1990) US distributor SANOFI (until 1995) = after 1990, up to 1995 |
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| "Gem", new address 62 Avenue d'Iena, Paris = after 1991 up to 1995 |
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| "Gem", box with barcode batch number 2BA = year 1992 |
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| "Pour Homme", box with Barcode and Greendot (since 1992) distrib. ADIPAR (since 1995) = from 1995 up to 2000. |
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| "Pour Homme", label NEUILLY (from 1999 to 2007) batch number 1C01 = year 2001 |
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| "Birmane", launched in 1999, batch code 9C01 = year 1999 |
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| VCA logo = after 1999 |
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| "Zanzibar", launched in 2001, batch number 2I04 = year 2002 |
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| "Pour Homme", label NEUILLY (1999-2007) batch 4F02 = year 2004 |
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| "TSAR" , label ADIPAR (1995-2000) batch number 7J16 = year 1997 |
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| "Gem", launched in 1987 label OMNIUM with old address "62 Faubourg St.Honorè", no barcode (since 1990), batch number 9BU = year 1989 |
| (from ebay) "First", label OMNIUM, new address 62 Avenue d'Iena (since 1991) with barcode, US distributor Sanofi (until 1995) = years 1991-1995 |
| "First", label "www.vca-parfums.com" (since 2002) batch number 2K05 = year 2002 (warning: this is NOT the "long list of ingedients") |
| (from Ebay) "First", ADIPAR label (1995-2000) = years 1995 up to 2000. |
| (from ebay) "First", label "www.vca-parfums.com" (since 2002) with long list of ingredients (since 2005) batch nr. 9J111B = year 2009 |
| (from ebay) "Van Cleef", launched in 1993, barcode, label SANOFI ( up to 1995) = years 1993 up to 1995 |
| (From ebay) "Miss Arpels", launched in 1994, label SANOFI batch nr. 5A01 = year 1995 |
| (from ebay) "Miss Arpels", label ADIPAR , years 1995 up to 2000. |


















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